Summer day treks in the high mountains

Ok So sometimes we throw in a carton of wine (or 2!)

• 35 to 50 litre rucksack (Millet, Grivel, Deuter, Macpac)
• At least 3 litres of water either in bottles or hydration sacks (Nalgene, Camelbak)
• Sun hat ( Salomon, Tilley)
• Sun cream (P20 recommended)
• Lip Cream (Carmex)
• Sunglasses (Oakley, Adidas)
• Lightweight trousers (shorts not recommended…….sunburn and spiky terrain!) (TrangoWorld (Spain))
• Lightweight boots (Scarpa, La Sportiva)
• Lightweight waterproof and windproof jacket (Lowe Alpine, North Face)
• Thermal base layer (Patagonia, Karrimor)
• Trekking Poles (Leki)
• Food and snacks for the day
• Socks (Thorlo, Smartwool, Bridgedale)
• Lightweight windstopper fleece or vest (Mountain Hardware, TrangoWorld, North Face)
• Thermal gloves (yes, even in summer we have needed these up high!) (Marmot, Extremities)

5 day Main Ridge Traverse or Multi-Day trips

(Exceptions to Summer day treks in the high mountains list see above)

• 60 to 70 litre rucksack ( Macpac, POD)
• Karrimat or Thermarest  (Karrimat, Thermarest)
• Lightweight tent or bivvy bag (Terra Nova, Bibler, Hilleberg)
• 3 season sleeping bag (PHD Designs, Mountain Equipment)
• Warm fleece or down jacket (RAB)
• Stove (we prefer gas to fuel burners) (Jetboil, Trangia, MSR)
• Gas (Screwtop cannisters)
• Cooking pan and utensils (MSR, Jetboil)
• Warm headware (North Face, Bask)
• Entertainment? (MP3, Kindle or book) (Up to you?)
• Headtorch (Petzl)
• Toilet paper (important!)
• Toiletries
• Rubbish bag (all rubbish and packaging must be taken out)
• Food for 5 days (we dehydrate our own food and find this tasty, filling, cheap & light)

Our walking and trekking trips in Andalucia are designed to be accessible to all who are in good health and enjoy the outdoors, but fitness levels are important and you should consider carefully which trip is right for you.

Andalucia, Spain's most varied and interesting walking destination

Our grading system is there to help you choose a trip appropriate to your ability and requirements. For harder trips the correct preparation can vastly enhance your enjoyment; stamina building aerobic activities such as regular cycling, swimming, jogging and walking beforehand will make a noticeable difference.

There is no need to worry about not walking fast enough or holding back the group. All you need to focus on is your ability to complete the route. Everyone has his or her own comfortable pace and we always strive to accommodate this. All Walking & Trekking holidays present physical demands, so expect to feel some tiredness even after a leisurely, days walking. Grades are only a guide.

The route up the south ridge of Mulhacen from the Hoya del Portillo may not be the most exciting in the world but at least it gives a high start point. An early start meant the 8 of us avoided the searing heat of the lower Alpujarras and we had the cool of the morning for the ascent.

Veleta and Cerro de los Machos, upper Rio Chico

No snow affects the old dirt track at the moment and progress was rapid up to the Mirador de Trevelez where we stopped for breakfast and to admire the views down to Trevelez. The bus from Capileira arrived during breakfast break unfortunately and disgorged a number of unsuitably clad walkers dressed in beachwear looking for Mulhacen!

Then it was a slow plod up the south ridge, enlivened by the clear views over to Veleta and the Tajos de los Machos range and also by a couple of Griffon Vultures who graced us with their presence.

Griffon Vultures above Mulhacen south ridge

As we rested by the summit cairn not a breath of wind blew. Up above a couple of booted eagles played in the thermals. The heat lower down meant that distant views were hazy but the whole range of the Sierra Nevada was laid bare. As it was a bank holiday in Spain there were a few other walkers around.

At this point the 3 of us who were continuing on (Iris Bogaerts, James Jackson and myself) said our farewells to our 5 companions, who descended via the west flank, returning to the fiestas in Lanjaron. We skirted round the east ridge and dropped down to our overnight camp at Cañada de Siete Lagunas.

Camp at Siete Lagunas

No matter how many times I have been here I am always startled by the majesty of the place. Lovely cold icy lakes and lush grasses make it an ideal overnight stop. With less weight and a bit more energy we would have moved up to Laguna Alta, the quietest place to stay in a magnificent glacial cirque. Instead we opted for Laguna Hondera at the entrance to the valley.

On previous visits we had been plagued by foxes intent on plundering our meagre food stocks. This time we had no issues although we did try a anti-fox beacon as a deterrent. Maybe it worked or maybe the dogs camping around there with their owners put off  ”los Ladrones“!

Next morning we ascended the valley to the glacial cirque at the head. Blue skies, sun and dramatic backdrops made this a beautiful setting. Ice still covered some of the lakes. We ascended via a steep scree slope and then a slanting rake to find our way through the upper crags of Alcazaba and broke out onto the upper plateau.

The icy Laguna Alta at Siete Lagunas

Now it was an easy walk round to the summit of Alcazaba (the Fortress). This is well named. The mountain is surrounded on most sides by cliffs and there are few escape routes, usually to the SE. We sat for an hour on the summit admiring the view north towards the Puntal de Vacares and south west to the main ridge of the Sierras. Alpine Swifts weaved between the summit rocks. Northern Wheatears and Alpine Accentors hunted for leftover crumbs from our sandwiches.

Mulhacen from near the summit of Alcazaba

Clouds began to form from the east so it was down to the south east exit from the plateau. There is a way north to break through the Alcazaba cliffs if you are heading towards Vacares but it is steep loose and a certain amount of scrambling is required. We made it back to our camping site in good time. Not another sole had been seen on our trip to Alcazaba.

The ridge north to Puntal de Vacares

The weather was changing and bad weather was forecast for that evening. We decided to drop a bit lower and make a possible retreat much easier. Below the spectacular waterfall of Chorreras Negras the infantile Rio Culo del Perro (Dogs Arse River!) plunges down to a green area known as El Vertedero. Here we set up camp aside the stream. As night fell we realised we had made a mistake. This area is used as a base for a herd of cows! Worse still, they all have loud bells round their necks, alpine style!

During the night the sound of bells was soon drowned out by the sound of heavy rainfall accompanied by spectacular lightning displays. At this point I realised that my faithful old North Face Gore Tex bivvy bag was not as faithful as I had thought. It leaked from numerous seams. In the morning, during a lull in the rain, we packed up hastily and retreated to the Refugio de Campiñuela for breakfast.

Shelter at the Campiñuela ruins

Then it was a short 2 hour walk down to Trevelez, reputed to be the highest village in Spain, for a welcome beer and a return to civilisation.

Spanish Highs Mountain Guides run multi day treks in the Sierra Nevada on a regular basis on demand throughout the summer.

Full Photo Gallery from the trip

Today, Wednesday July 28, 2010, I have had stolen an ice axe, crampons and boots in the Pico del Cartujo area at about 12 h. The thieves, because they can not be called anything else, are two men. You may wonder how this all came about. This is the story

I climbed from the ski area to the refugio Elorrieta by the icy slopes below the Tajos de la Virgin (hence the need for ice axe and crampons). Just before reaching the hut I detoured to the Cartujo with the idea of making the entire snow-free ridge to the Cerro de Caballo.  To relieve weight and feel more comfortable I decided to leave my gear hidden behind some rocks to collect later on my return. On the way back everything was gone. I know that they were two men because they are the only two people that I saw from looking back along the ridge in all the time I walked to the Caballo. I had a torrid and somewhat risky time getting back without the equipment and it necessitated a large detour. I have no hope that the gear will be returned to me unless you thieves are out there reading this and feel a tinge of remorse.

The Caballo

Within 15 minutes of leaving the car we had arrived at the ruined Ventura Hut. A short break there and we continued upwards traversing slopes of shrub, pine and finally scree. A welcoming stream flowed from a side valley which provided much needed relief for our dogs.

We skirted the SE side of the Cerro at 2800m and headed northwards to arrive at the delightful Laguna de Caballo, nestling at the base of the Cerro’s north face. It had taken just 3 hours to get here and involved 650m ascent. The lake provided a plesant resting place for both humans and dogs!

From there we headed W up a short slope towards the Col de Caballo and thence on to the summit. Great views towards the main mass of the Sierra Nevada but with afternoon clouds threatening we quickly descended southwards along the vague ridge accompanied by large herds of mountain goats (cabra montes). A short steep grassy descent led us back to our start point near the Ventura Hut.

Our journey back to the beers and fleshpots of Lanjaron gave us close up views of many Kestrels gathering above the forest tracks and possibly our first ever view glimpse of the rare Bonellis Eagle.

This is a great day trip. We never saw another car or person during our 6hr walk. The views are extensive and the high start point makes this a good summer excursion. Recommended!

Spanish Highs Mountain Guides have recently added the “Gran Vasar de Alcazaba” and the “Vasar de Mulhacen” to their high level trekking holiday itineraries.

Vasar de Mulhacen

The key entry point to this path lies 100m uphill and eastwards from the Col de Ciervo on Mulhacen’s west ridge. At the next obvious break in the ridge lies a small cairn with a red circle on the nearby rocks. This marks the start of the path. The photo to the right is taken just below the starting point.

At this point take a deep breath! The way looks very scary indeed, A narrow path winds it’s way along a natural shelf or rake running halfway up the north face. There is vertical ground above and below. The path is loose so take care. Those passing this way will need a head for heights but their is no real scrambling of note.

We always wear helmets here as the whole of the north face is shattered and there might be a slight risk of stonefall. Half way along the shelf the way broadens but the going is hardly less dramatic. A rise up the screes at the end leads us to the Puntal de Siete Lagunas. Here we can access either the valley of Siete Lagunas itself or contour round and climb the scree couloir to gain the plateau leading to the summit of Alcazaba.

Needless to say, don’t do this in winter, if iced up, in mist or in bad weather, unless you are suitably experienced and have the necessary equipment and knowledge of how to use it.

Gran Vasar de Alcazaba

This is of similar vein to the Vasar de Mulhacen. A shelf leads from near the Puntal de El Goteron rightwards. This too leads over steep ground, but the exposure is not felt as much as that on Mulhacen. The route leads to the Laguna de la Mosca, where a short climb brings one out at the Col de Ciervo.

This is an easier route and much used in winter by climbers accessing the climbs on Alcazaba NW face.

Laguna Cuadrada

Water shouldn’t really be a problem after the wet winter just past, but the following should be a reliable guide even in the driest years. We always have obtained water from the following locations, spread and situated throughout the length of the main Sierra Nevada ridge system. I have tried to indicate the convenience throughout the text.

The Sources

Heading south from the Postero Alto hut near Jerez de Marsquesado:

Barranco del Alhori – will mean a slight detour into the barranco and an ascent from there up to the Pico del Jerez.

Laguna de Juntillas – a series of small lakes just SW of the Puntal de Juntillas. Means a descent of 150m from the main ridge.

Laguna de Rio Seco

Laguna de Vacares – 80m SE down a steep track from the collado de Vacares on the main ridge.

Lagunas de las Calderetas – Small lakes between Puntal de Vacares and Alcazaba 100m down on the SE side.

Barranco de Goteron – north east of Alcazaba and passed on the main track when outflanking the crags of Alcazaba to the east.

Siete Lagunas – Loads of water everywhere!

Laguna de la Caldera – water levels may be low in the driest summers but this source never runs dry.

Laguna de Rio Seco – 80m drop south from the main ridge

Laguna de Aguas Verdes – East of the collado de Cariguela but unfortunately some 180m down. Only for masochists!

Lagunillas de la Virgen – useless if taking the scrambling on Tajos de la Virgen but next to the track if en route to the Elorietta hut.

Laguna de Lanjaron – very reliable but 200m drop SW from the hut.

Laguna Cuadrada – by the track if heading on the Verada Cortada track between the Elorietta and Caballo. Not an option if taking the main ridge.

Laguna de Caballo – right by the side of the hut.

Rio Lanjaron – always year round water. Accessible in the higher reaches or at the ruins at Tello some 2hours from Lanjaron.

Water purification

The water is normally pure and sweet but towards the end of the summer and early autumn you can get plenty of small red larvae in lake water. Always try to take from running water if possible. A water filter has proved very useful to us if these conditions exist. The alternative would be the various forms of tablets and purification methods available.

Access Locations:
(1) Hoya de la Mora (2500m). Follow the ski road from Granada to the ski town. Follow the signs left for œVeleta above the town and reach a car park at the road end. Good quick access for Veleta, Los Machos and Catujo sectors. Cariguela hut is 3hrs from here.

(2) Cortijuela (1700m). Follow the road through La Zubia towards the Cumbres Verdes. Continue on past Fuente del Hervidero to the Cortijuela. Good for access to Dilar and Cartujo sectors.

(3) Fuente Fria (Dehesa de Durcal) (2150m). Follow the rough track above Niguelas going up the gorge. Keep going until the Cortijos de Echevaria are reached. Continue traversing NE on poor track until the road end at Fuente Fria. 4WD only. Good for Caballo and Cartujo access from the west.

(4) Ventura trailhead (2100m). Follow the track up the side of El Frenazo restaurant in Lanjaron. Signs lead in 45 mins to the Ventura trailhead. 15 mins to ruined Ventura hut. 3hrs to hut at Laguna de Caballo. At times 4WD necessary.

(5) Puente Palo (1750m). Above the village of Ca±ar and accessible from either Orgiva or Lanjaron (40 mins). Rough track but 4WD not necessary. Start point for Tajos de los Machos. 2 hours to Cebollar hut from here. Elorrieta is 5 hours and 1500m ascent!

(6) Casa Forestal La Pluca (2225m). East side of Las Alegas above the western flank of the Poqueira Gorge. Access from Soportujar (30 mins) on rough track. High access to Tajos de los Machos and Elorrieta hut (4hrs).

(7) Centro Electrico Cebadilla (1500m). Main sheltered route to Poqueira Hut in winter if snow low down. Just a 15 min drive above Capileira. Hut is 3 hours from here.

(8 ) Hoya de Portillo (2150m). A rough track above Capileira leads in 25 mins to the road end at a barrier by a ranger station. 4WD not normally necessary. Track upwards through the forest leads either to the Poqueira hut (3hrs) or the south ridge of Mulhacen. 2.5hrs to the Poqueira Hut. 5 hours to the Cariguela hut.

(9) Trevelez (1600m). The town is good for access to Alcazaba via Siete Lagunas (2900m).

(10) Jerez de Marsquesado. Normally start or end point for Los Tres Miles full ridge traverse. Long unrelenting ascent is necessary from here!

(11) Verada de Estrella. Via the town of Guejar Sierra. Follow the road through the town and via a series of road tunnels either side of the Genil river. Finally you arrive at the road end when there is ample car space available. Access the N and NW sides of Mulhacen, Alcazaba, Puntal de la Caldera from here. Also the Lanchar ridge can be started from here. 2hrs to the Cueva Sectreta bivouac site.

It is at it’s best late spring or early summer when the snow still lies around. The area is teeming with life is surrounded by some of the highest peaks in the Sierras. The small series of lakes at Lagunillas de la Virgen is a great place to while away the hours.

The outward trip from Borreguiles only takes a hours leisurely walk. Return can be made via much harder options in the mountains surrounding you or via the lower chairlift station and the rough track towards the Radio telescope that dominates the ridgeline nearby.

This photo is of our Leonberger dog, Bruno, enjoying himself in one of the many lakes.