Ski Touring Loma de San Juan

The winter so far hasn’t been anything like as bad as the past one. Sure, we have had good snowfalls, but have had periods of settled weather in between. In these situations providing one accesses correctly the avalanche dangers and chooses your route wisely, then good mountain days can be had. Ascents of all the major peaks, excepting Alcazaba, have been achieved often by some interesting and new (for us) routes.

We have completed many days winter skills mountaineering and alpine instruction courses. There is always a call to climb Mulhacen and we have delivered on many occasions.  Ski touring weeks have been completed often in difficult snow conditions. On some poor days up high we have managed some interesting scrambling and rock climbing instead.

Highlights I think have been…………………..
Crossing Puntal de la Caldera and Tajos de la Virgen
Ski descents from Mulhacen
Ski Touring Veleta and San Juan
Finding new areas to enjoy winter mountaineering

Jens Foell

Most of the tougher stuff has fallen to Jens Foell, who has had some outstanding guiding days. We have also been ably assisted at times with the capable David Thomas, the experience of Jane Fields and the enthusiasm of mountaineering apprentice James Jackson.

Behind the guiding effort Kiersten Rowland and James Jackson have provided much needed admin backup.

Thanks to all for their help and efforts! Me? I’ve done my bit, especially on the instructional and ski touring stuff, but seem to have been office boy for much of the winter!

Now for the second half of the winter. This is the most fun, especially for an “oldie” like me! Sunnier. Warmer. Bivouacking comes more into play, enabling us a wider scope and opportunity. I am looking forward to long ski touring days on the Cerro de Caballo, Tajos de los Machos and the Tajos de Cartujo. Long mountaineering routes on the Raspones ridges and gullies and Snowshoeing in the forests of the Alpujarras.

All this is to come. Can’t wait.

Group enjoying the walk through the forests

We parked at the recreation site at Puente Palo, above the village of Cañar. We accessed on another dirt track from Lanjaron. With care a normal saloon car could reach this spot but the road conditions do deteriorate depending on the severity of recent rains.

Puente Palo is situated at about 1700m. We had a zig zag walk up through the forest for about an hour before we encountered our first snows at around the 2000m level. Tracks of wild boar had crossed the path in front of us adding greatly to the pleasure of our excited dogs. The snow deepened and with rising frustration at sinking into the snows, we eventually donned our snowshoes.

Snowshoeing along the mountainside

None of the party had done it before but were keen and eager to learn. That said, there’s not really too much to learn really. Put them on your feet and walk like John Wayne! Immediately the going was easier as we crossed interesting slopes on our way to the deserted cortijo at Cañada de Tajos de los Machos.  Going up, over and around deep snow drifts added excitement. As did the cloud which drifted in from the south leaving us in thick mist.

With the trees to guide us we made the old cortijo where we had some lunch. Our plans to escape onto the open hillside towards the peak of  Cerrillo Redondo had to be curtailed at this point. A party of 6 stumbling around in the mist on a 3000m hill didnt seem to good an idea. Instead we opted for an exhilarating descent alongside a forest break.

Having fun on the descent

Rule number 1 in snowshoeing ……………. going down is actually harder than going up (although more fun!). Snowshoes maybe quite good for fall line ascents or descents but for traversing they are not so good. The grip goes and one slides.

Having said that the group had a whale of a time sliding down the slopes alongside the forest. When the snow began to run out at the forest edge we heading in closer to the forest. Some of the guys even went back uphill to try the downhill again!

Of course our excited husky (Khumbu) and leonberger (Bruno) were in their element as they chased us down the white slopes trying to halt our progress.

A good day, yet only 45 minutes from Lanjaron. If you wish to try it our yourself, we can provide all the gear (snowshoes, poles). We are running snowshoeing day and multi day tours throughout the winter and usually up until the end of May.

Read our snowshoeing trip reports.

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Extracts from our Guide to Snowshoeing

For Who?

The good news is that anyone who can walk can go snowshoeing. From young kids to senior citizens. Depending on your age and weight range there will be a shoe that will fit your specific needs.

What to Wear?

The good news is you won’t need to buy a lot of expensive gear, chances are some of it is probably in your closet! Here is a list of what you could expect to wear on an average outing:

Warm layers: Dress in layers! Put on some toasty non-cotton long underwear as a foundation with an middle insulating layer of fleece or wool. Include an outer layer to block wind or snow if the conditions demand it. You can shed layers as you get warm and put them back on as you cool.

Footwear: Warm socks (wool or polypropylene), waterproof hiking boots, winter boots, or even your waterproof running shoes! Consider buying a pair of gaiters, they’re great for keeping your ankles dry in deep powder.

Hat and Gloves: Both of these items are very important for any winter weather. Remember you lose a considerable amount of heat from your head. If you’re cold- put a hat on.

Extras: Even though it’s cold out, you still need to keep hydrated, so bring the water bottle with! If you’re going way out there, carry snacks, a compass and map, first aid kit, and flashlight (or headlamp) too. These things can be carried in a bum bag or day-pack, or simply stash them in a pocket. Poles are suggested for balance, load carrying, hiking in steep terrain, and to take a little bit of weight away from your knees. Give ‘em a try!
Nearly everyone is a little nervous or intimidated when trying out a new sport. Snowshoeing, however, is a sport that you can enjoy your first time out. Before you go on your first trip take a few minutes to become familiar with your snowshoes. We suggest getting acquainted with your new shoes in the warmth of a building and not out in the cold. The most important aspect is to become familiar with the binding. Follow these simple steps to make sure you have the proper fit every time. Put the ball of your foot over the top of the hinge, centered on the snowshoe. Your toes should be hanging over the front of the foot bed. Tighten the front strap first, followed by the heel strap and finish by tightening the strap over your instep. The straps don’t need to be overly tight. Just make sure they are snug. It’s that easy! Now you’re ready for your first adventure.

How to do it?

Technique: The most important thing to remember is to keep your stride natural. Don’t try to modify or exaggerate your gait. Walking or running should feel natural, and in either instance the terrain will dictate your stride. You will have the easiest time learning on gentle, flat, or rolling terrain, but the steeper and deeper the terrain gets, the more challenging and intense your hike or run will get! Another point to remember when beginning snowshoeing is that your snowshoes have a larger “footprint” on the snow than you are probably used to. You might feel awkward for a few hundred yards, but soon your slightly wider stance will feel natural. The solution is to simply concentrate on spreading your feet a bit further apart throughout your stride; this helps you avoid knocking your snowshoe frames together and possibly tripping. The following are some thoughts to keep in mind: remember to lift those knees, think about a wider stance, and avoid dragging or shuffling your feet to prevent the crampons from catching on firm snow. Using a set of poles when snowshoeing will make all of these things come together, all on their own.

Uphill/Downhill/Traversing: When you maneuver up steep slopes, a good technique involves aggressive use of the front crampons. Get your knees up and dig the front points of the crampons into the snow. Remember, the fastest way to the top is straight up – but a more practical method is to cross the slope diagonally. When you are traveling downhill, avoid leaning backwards onto the tails of the snowshoes whenever possible. Try to keep your weight upright and over the center of the snowshoe, and let the front crampons (located under the ball of your foot) grip the snow to prevent sliding. When you are traversing slopes, stay upright and lean into the hill with each step. Keep your weight forward and your crampons beneath you. Short, even strides, as well as traveling with a set of poles, will help avoid slipping and ensure safety.

Deep Snow: Lift your knees and shorten your stride. Your snowshoes are not designed to completely float above the snow, so you will find that you sink a little bit with each step. If you are traveling most often in deep drifts or light, fluffy powder, you may find that getting the next largest size snowshoe will improve your floatation. When in deep snow it is important to tread lightly and pace yourself.

Intensity: The intensity level of snowshoeing is infinitely variable. From a slow walk you can increase intensity by going faster, running, using poles, going uphill, and/or by going through deeper and softer snow. The ease with which you can change the intensity level of snowshoeing is one of the keys to its great value in having fun and as a fitness option. At a minimum, snowshoeing will be a bit more intense than walking or running at any given pace or level due to the cold, weight of the snowshoes, resistance of the snow, etc.

Safety: Snowshoeing is an extremely safe sport. It is also one of the only winter-specific sports that do not depend upon sliding or speed. The manageable and maneuverable nature of modern aluminum-framed snowshoes and the soft forgiving nature of snow combine to make the risk of injury while snowshoeing very low. Snowshoeing involves a natural motion similar to walking, to which the body is accustomed, and is very low impact due to the cushioning of snow. Any wintertime outdoor activity has its risks and snowshoeing is no exception. Take care to avoid the following hazards: Thin ice: Do not walk over frozen water unless you are sure of its safety. Even after a long freeze, a body of water may have thin spots. Be careful! Hidden obstacles: Beware of barbed wire fences, holes, or uneven terrain under the snow. Tread lightly!

If it is “different” you are wanting, then maybe you would like to try out a days Ski Touring up Veleta  which at 3398m is right behind Mulhacen.  Snowshoeing is another sport which has showed a stable growth as a sport in recent years and the Sierra Nevada can offer a variety of scenery from pine forests to ascending up Mulhacen.

Maybe you would like to have a go at a Winter Skills course that includes learning how to use a ice axe, how to properly fit crampons, awareness of Avalanches and what to look out for, roping up and the use of  snow belays and much more. This is a fantastic course for those wanting to get hands on experience with safety and precaution in the mountains!

Gary Scully

The following report of the trip  has been sent in by Gary Scully, a member of the group involved, who are raising funds for Help the Heroes. The fine photos are courtesy of Andy Grant (see Flickr Collection).

My first morning back at work has been…’interesting’. The sideways glances as people walked past me, the blatant staring along with the odd smirk…and of course the expected mickey taking from the office workmates.

Ok, today I look…different, my face is quite red to say the least caused by a cross between sunburn and wind burn….apart from where my sunglasses were which has left me looking like the proverbial panda….a bit silly when I have had to wear a suit and tie in a 4 hour meeting with some quite influential customers, embarrassing to say the least.

The questions WTF have you been doing? and why do you do it? Are just a couple of the questions I have been asked today.

The first question is an easy one to answer. I have spent the weekend with a group of friends climbing the highest mountain on the Spanish mainland, an 11,500ft snow covered lump of rock looking over the Spanish beaches on the Costa Del Sol. We were in the capable hands of Spanish Highs, an outdoor adventure company set up eight years ago by Richard and Kiersten from the UK and based in the lovely spa town of Lanjaron in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada.

Andy

The why? could be easily answered by saying ‘because I can’, or ‘because it’s there’ but to me it’s more than that, and to answer the question I have to talk about bubbles….bear with me!!

I see people wrapped in bubbles, these ‘bubbles’ are called life experience and come in four sizes. The first size is huge, if the owner of that bubble reached out there is no way he / or she will reach the sides, in fact the inside of the bubble is so big you could do the wall of death on a motorbike inside it because the person inside this bubble is the base jumper, the sky diver….the adrenaline junkie whose life has no boundaries.

The second size is the ‘flexible’ bubble where the owner can reach out and just about touch the sides but is able to stretch the boundaries of the bubble by doing things just outside their comfort zones and increasing their ‘life experiences’.

Then there is the fixed / safe bubbles where people can reach out and easily touch the sides and are comfortable with that and feel safe with their boundaries. Maybe they would like to have a go at something new, but just cannot make that move to ‘give it a go’.

Shaun

The final bubble is the type that has shrunken and is claustrophobic, where people don’t seem interested in finding what is out there.

I wonder which bubble you would place yourself in? I would guess the second or third. So…to answer the second question, why? I do it to stretch my bubble and experience new things, to see things you wouldn’t normally see.

On this weekend we were snowshoeing through 6 metre deep snow with clear blue skies, we walked through frozen forests and past snow and ice sculptures created by the mixture of snow and high wind conditions…we had a flypast by a pair of inquisitive Golden Eagles who flew just over our heads.

The second day couldn’t have been more different, we were at the other end of the weather spectrum, we had 80 mile an hour winds which picked up the snow and ice and hurled it at us. Visibility was down to a few meters and we had a 7 hour trek from our refuge in the Poquiera refuge with it’s warm fire and excellent food back to our start point. Today was going to be interesting to say the least…you just wouldn’t get this on a wet weekend here in Crawley.

Mike Elston

The trek started on day one with myself and four other friends led by Mike, the more than capable Spanish Highs guides whose task was to get us up the mountain and back again all in one piece.

Now most of us in the group have quite a lot of experience in the outdoors, and I would place us in bubble number two, the expandable one….and then there was Sarah whose idea of an extreme walk would be to walk the full length of Oxford street and not go into any shop…bubble number 3!!

Spain's Sierra Nevada in winter

We had only gone 300 metres from the start point when the toys were thoroughly thrown from Sara’s pram!.. She was adamant she could not do this and it was too steep and we should turn round…unfortunately having a tantrum and stamping your feet just doesn’t have the same effect when you are wearing snowshoes in 6 meters of snow…finally, with all toys dispersed and the dawning that energy was being wasted Sara finally realised that, as the song goes, ‘The only way is up’!!

Snow filled winter forests

With the hut an 8 hour trek away we trudged our way through pearl white snow under a beautiful blue sky and past the frozen forest, the views and experiences were spectacular, although it took us 8 hours to get to the hut and we were all on the point of exhaustion when we got there, every step was worth it.

Winter mountain landscapes

Pippa

The morning after the mountain decided to test our survival abilities and Mikes navigation skills. It hit us with all the bad weather it could muster….internally Sara was creating her own storm and had found another supply of toys which were hurled everywhere…even her two make-up bags nearly went!! But this time she had a point. We were all sore and aching and absolutely knackered because sleeping in the refuge is quite difficult to say the least…unfortunately (again) for Sara her demands for a helicopter fell on deaf ears. The only things that was flying today were the chunks of ice being picked up by the 80 mile an hour blizzard….and this was forecast to stay for another week.

Finally we set off into the storm and within 30 paces the hut had disappeared behind us. Visibility was down to a few metres…Mikes’ navigation skills were set for a real test today…but off he confidently marched with us all in tow behind.

Sara

After 20 minutes we found that bits of us were beginning to freeze, but we couldn’t stop to sort ourselves out, we were too exposed, and anyway if you stood still you would have been blown over such was the power of the blizzard.

Finally a huge rock emerged in the distance which we used as a shelter to put on every piece of clothing we could…we only stayed a couple of minutes there, with the wind chill the temperature had dipped to a ‘chilly’ -30 at least!  Even Sara had realised we were having an epic trek and we needed to just get on with it.

Seven hours later we emerged from the forest and in the near distance we could see the start point…Mike had done us proud, thanks to his local knowledge, navigation skills….and I am sure, with a little help from the angel of navigation sat on his shoulder, he had led us on a seven hour trip though an ice storm with no visibility straight back to the 4×4 and safety.

After a good hot shower back in Lanjaron and a couple of well earned beers we each mulled over what we had been through and what we had seen over the past two days.

The Help For Heroes Team

As a group we had certainly expanded our life experience boundaries but the person who had gained the most was Sara.  Having started on the first step saying ‘she couldn’t do it, it’s too difficult’ she had completed a 15 hour trek through 6 metre deep snow in some of the toughest conditions the mountain could throw at us and that actually she was a lot stronger person than she thought she was, she realised you can do anything…if you just push yourself a little harder and stretch your boundaries.

The way I see it is, ‘we are all born, we all die, it’s what you do in between that counts’

If any of you reading this fancy giving it a go and would like to expand your horizons in a wonderful part of the world give Richard and Kiersten a shout at www.spanishhighs.co.uk, whose company should have the strapline ‘boundary extensions a speciality’,  you will not be sorry.

Puente Palo (above Canar)

About 45 mins drive above Orgiva or Lanjaron. Icy track in a morning but no 4WD necessary with care. Park at the recreational area and follow the forest track uphill. After 15 mins the snow is continuous and allows either skis or snowshoes to be worn. The forest thereafter has kept the snow well and access to the upper areas and ultimately Cerrillo Redondo (3055m) and Tajos de los Machos (3085m) is straightforward.

Refugio Forestal de la Pluca (above Capileira)

Used as an access track for Las Alegas (2703) and Tajos de los Machos (3085m). 4WD still nesessary and the track is very icy in the mornings.

Fuente Fria (above Niguelas)

The best access for skiing the west flank of Cerro de Caballo. (3005m). 4wd necessary. The final track to Fuente Fria can be difficult. Care required. If in doubt park 1km before the road end.

In our opinion this is one of the bst ski mountaineering days in the Sierra Nevada. The west flank gives numerous routes on both ascent and descent. A great day out.

Ventura Trailhead (above Lanjaron)

This is still affected by snow and ice. The ski touring route up the Caballo from here looks intact.

We followed the easy track round the ridgeline, then left our Irish stalwart, Rory O’Neill, to break trail up the steepening ridge. As we encountered the main rocks we swapped snowshoes for crampons and ice axe. The snow was not consolidated and care was needed on the ascent up the centre of the main face (the normal route). Crampons continually balled up with the soft snow.

We reached the sharp summit cone 3 hours after starting, a good time for the conditions. There were clear and fantastic views back towards Granada and across to the Alayos de Dilar. Behind us the Sierra Nevada made a dramatic backgound with huge lenticular clouds indicating high windspeeds.

A short break and we headed downhill reversing our outward track. Care was needed over some short sections but we reached the dry river valley of “Las Arenas” (renamed “Las Blancas” for the day). Here we put on our snowshoes for the final descent back to the waiting car at Cortijo Sevilla.

A good day. Recommended. Trevenque is special at any time of year, but in my opinion is at its most magic under deep snow. It might not be the highest, or the hardest, but it has a special quality. You always savour the moment when you tread on it’s fine and pointed summit.

We made our way upwards, trying to seek out interesting ways, until we reached the San Juan valley exit at 2850m. Here there was sign of recent avalanche activity, unheard of in my previous 10 years experience of coming here! We crossed the closed ski piste and kept to the windswept ridge where snow was less deep. Here necessitated crampons.

After 3hrs we reached Los Posiciones at 3050m where we had the usual spectacular views of Alcazaba and Mulhacen. Lenticular clouds piled in over Mulhacen, suggesting a turn in the hitherto fine but cloudy weather.

After 4 hours we were just below the top drag lift station. Time and snow conditions were not on our side. In addition the weather was deteriorating rapidly. We made a decision to turn around at this point.

There followed a quick 2 hour descent which included an incursion into the upper San Juan bowl. This was full of deep powder up to the thighs. Great snowshoeing! Thick mist came in as we descended the valley, skirting the avalanche areas. This became a total whiteout as we came out at the San Juan exit at 2800m. Then it was a fast downhill to the safety of the cars.

Snow conditions are still very bad. Avalanche risks remain high. Snowshoes or skis are essential for travelling in the Sierra Nevada.

Donning crampons at the hut we easily ascended via the Rio Mulhacen on crisp snow. If you kept to the track made by others, we found good hard snow, but if you ventured away from the track then a plunge into metre deep powder was the result.

As the sun lit up the snows around us the snow slowly became softer and the going harder. We reached the Collado de Ciervo in 3 hours (in nomal conditions 2 hours). The going became even slower as we climbed up the western ridge, the altitude taking its customary toll. The great north face of the mountain yawned close by on the left.

Some respite was found at half height up the face as we encountered perfect neve and progress was easier. Thereafter we linked icy patches which provided easier going until we reached the summit. The ascent had taken 5 hours (normally 3.5). We were the only ones on the mountain at that time. The cold made for spectacular and clear views across to Almeria and to the African coastline.

As we were being picked up at the Cebedilla we had to retrace our steps back down the west flank. Below the icy patches, at about 3250m, we donned snowshoes and began an exhilerating and fast descent downhill. The sun was, by now very warm, the deep snow soft and mushy. By taking a direct and adventurous downhill lines we rapidly reached the base of the Rio Mulhacen track, where it joins the Poqueira hut traverse path.

Instead of traversing to the hut at this point the good snow encouraged us to continue downwards alongside the river. Lower down we traversed leftwards and regained the acequia leading to Cortijo Tomas. From here it was an easy but tiring return on tired legs to the start point at Cebadilla. The whole descent from the summit of Mulhacen to La Cebadilla had only taken 4 hours, a tribute to the value of snowshoes if those conditions.

There were (unsurprisingly?) no other people at the hut apart from the guardian and his staff. They spent a pleasant evening there, having the hut to themselves. The standard of food at the hut is excellent, by the way!

The following morning snowshoes were required almost immediately. They traversed into the Rio Mulhacen where they encountered very deep (1.5m) and unconsolidated powder snow. No ice encountered. There were no tracks up the virgin snowfields. Breaking trail up the Mulhacen normal route was very difficult and the work had to be shared. It took almost 3.5hrs to reach the Caldera hut (normally 2 hrs max). At this point they decided that the summit was too arduous and difficult given the snow conditions so, in worsening weather they decided to return to the hut and thence back to the start point at the Cebedilla trailhead in the Poqueira Gorge.

Photos are to follow in the next few days.

“Sincerely grateful to the entire team for your warm hospitality, masterful guiding and for opening the door to a more adventurous world of winter trekking.” Arif Basheer

Fundraising by Tahir and Arif Basheer

Tahir and Arif, who were along on the Mulhacen climb, are raising funds for charity by walking to Everest Base Camp and Kala Pattar. If you wish to support their efforts you can by logging into their fundraising sites at:
http://www.justgiving.com/tahirbasheer
http://www.justgiving.com/arifbasheer

Please support their efforts!

Good job we had the snowshoes on as the snowdepth was thigh deep in places. We had a minor problem when a snowbridge failed and I went for a swim in a river. No harm done and a good laugh for all!

Definitely needed snowshoes and it may take a day or two before high mountain travel becomes easier.