Thanks to Pepe Badaje for digging out this information and providing the video with old photos. Read his report in spanish on his blog.

The distant Cerro de Caballo from Elorrieta June 2010

He intended to go from Granada to the peak of Veleta and then descend to Lanjaron, but could not find any guide in the city who was willing to accompany him on foot. So he decided to travel by stagecoach from Granada and changed plans to start from Lanjarón.

In Lanjarón, he found Juan Estévez, a young, strong-willed, strong, active, fearless local man, willing to walk all the hours that were needed. His lack of knowledge of the Sierra Nevada made up by enthusiasm and effort.

From Lanjarón they climbed the Cerro de Caballo, a climb that served to convince the Englishman that unfortunately he had underestimated the Sierra Nevada. I might point out that one and a half centuries later this is still being done on a regular basis! They dropped down to the Laguna de Caballo, whose slopes still had a respectable amount of snow and returned to Lanjaron.

The second climb was performed from Capileira, where they were joined by another local guide. From here they made the very long climb to Mulhacén. Ormsby was  quite impressed and said…. “the Pyrenees or the Alps have nothing to be compared properly with it.”

In his third outing, he started out again from Lanjaron, camped high overnight near the Cerro del Caballo and restarted before dawn taking the track leading to what is now the Elorietta refugio.

At one point along the way, probably the ridge of Tajos de la Virgin, he had to overcome a large snow slope, “so hard that nothing could pierce the surface”. They reached the Col de Capileira/Cariguela, the highest pass in Europe used for genuine commercial purposes. The ascent of Veleta was made from here. Once on the summit of Veleta they said their goodbyes, Ormsby moving north to Granada and the “cañonero”, Juan Estévez, returning to Lanjarón.

Viajeros ilustres: Primer viaje de Ormsby a… by pepebadaje

Here is the report by John Ormsby on Lanjarón and Juan Estévez, the guide found in the village and who was his companion during his stay in Sierra Nevada:

“Lanjarón is one of the most beautiful places I have been fortunate to see on my walks through the deserts of this world …

The town is a long street of white houses with low roofs, and like all people of Las Alpujarras , is quite Moorish in appearance. It perches on the south side of a steep mountain, with a deep ravine in front, and the narrow ledge on which it sits is a maze of pomegranate and peach, fig and orange trees. But we are not here to talk about oranges, except perhaps to note that Lanjarón oranges are famous throughout the south of Spain, and are a wonderful provision of nature that comforts the mountaineer in a hot and dry land.

Among the attractions of the area which are relevant here – a rarity in Spain, and doubly rare in this area, a clean and comfortable small inn and a very efficient guide. The driver of the coach, who was interested enough in my way of proceeding,  said he thought he knew a young man who would serve my purposes, and the young man, as later proved, responded reasonably well. In the event that any member of the Alpine Club was once in Lanjarón, his name is Juan Estévez. He is a very willful young man, with pretty good humor, strong, active, ready to walk all the hours it takes, not afraid of anything and is rather fond of outdoor camping.

He now knows the mountains very well, and also the way to reach most major sights, but I can not say much about what he knew before we started. The main flaw I find in him was his habit of shouting in order to become better understood. No European language easier to understand than the Spanish after a little practice, where the Castilian standard, a thoughtful language in which to pronounce each vowel and consonant as written. But the Andalusian is a corruption of the Castilian, not pronouncing certain letters, slurring other and speaking very fast.

The dialect of the Alpujarras, is a corruption of the Andalusian. However, I understood better than I had expected. On the afternoon of our third day he told the innkeeper that he could understand what I was saying. If we started that night, he said, could reach the Veleta and return the next afternoon, and well, a little after midnight we began to ascend in a straight line behind Lanjarón “

The following summer, 1867, the Sierra Nevada hosted another English expedition made by Charles Packe, a Mr. Byles, and Henri Passet guide in that journey Lanjarón located in Juan Estévez thanks in the main to the story’s first trip Ormsby.

Jose anchoring the cable below the Cariguela

Even when you see the cable that stretches along the track, you should not try to pass either under or above. Skirt above the anchor of the machine as it is in constant motion due to the terrain and may tighten abruptly while you are crossing. It can move violently from side to side when looking straight down the fall line.

A map of the anchors used has been issued and is shown below.

Although at first glance this may not seem dangerous, coupled with the strength of the machine and their unpredictable behavior, it can be lethal, The ski resort itself has placed signs indicating the main anchor points to be aware of for mountaineers, such as La Hoya de la Mora, the Cauchiles and the Collado de Carihuela .

Finally note that the work of maintaining the ski pistes is performed at any time of day or night. Not necessarily during ski opening hours. I myself was invited by my Lanjaron friend, Jose some years back to accompany him on his night shift. A great experience where the anchors were used to good effect. Read more…………..

Many thanks to Pipi from Sherpa Granada for the information. Read full link in spanish.

Anchor Points for pistebashers Sierra Nevada. Click to enlarge

There are three options when travelling between the Cariguela and Elorietta huts in Spain’s Sierra Nevada mountains:

(1) The ridge of Tajos de la Virgen. Mild scrambling (grade 1) in summer and in winter conditions we have found it to be anything between Scottish grade 1 and 3 (Alpine PD approx), depending on snow and ice conditions. At times the ridge has been very hard going in deep powder with double cornices lining the ridge, exciting stuff. Other times it has been a fantastic winter walk.

There are 2 crux’s in summer and winter. These are marked YELLOW on the photos. Travelling from the Cariguela the first is obvious when a wall confronts you. This is bypassed on the right over an area of exposed sloping slabs, before regaining the main ridgeline. After passing the isolated pinnacle of the Fraile (monk) the second obstacle is met where a rising ramp from bottom left to top right found. Easy in summer but variations may have to be found in a hard winter.

(2) From the Cariguela drop down to the Lagunillas via the Olimpica ski run (marked). Traverse round to the left and pick up a track that rises across the slope to the Elorietta hut. This is a simple option in summer but dangerous in winter as the slopes regularly avalanche after fresh snow and there have been accidents here. If in doubt use option 3 below. The RED line on the photos shows the traverse path and the BLUE crosses indicate avalanche terrain.  This is steeper than the photo suggest and the path crosses above steepening covex slopes. Use of axe and/or crampons advised if snow covered.

(3) Drop down further and contour round into the bowl NW of the Pico del Cartujo. Easy moderate slopes with no avalanche danger follow up to the W ridge of the Cartujo wich then can be easily followed to the top. A short ridge with an exposed step lead to easier ground and the Elorietta. Much longer but a safer in winter.