Thanks to Ian Tupman, from the Costa Tropical who sent in this report about his night at the hut and how the newly restored hut coped with the extreme conditions. I have passed this onto Acción Sierra Nevada for further restoration projects this coming summer. Thanks Ian!

Below you can see a video from the same expedition that shows the ferocity of the winds to good effect.

REPORT ON THE CONDITION OF REFUGIO DE CABALLO

Spindrift blows across the Cerro de Caballo

We arrived on the afternoon of December 16. It was windy over 120 km/hr. The door and window were closed and the interior was clean. During the night the wind increased with strong gusts. The new door is great and it worked perfectly. But there were problems. Within hours there was a layer of water on the floor. I have two suggestions,

Snow was coming through the window. To avoid this, I suggest a similar exterior shutter door construction.

The wind was so strong that the spindrift blew through through the ceiling of the refugio. Inside, you can see that the roof is discolored (black) where water and snow penetrated. I think there are small cracks in the ceiling and advise the application (by brush) of a fine mortar to exterior cracks.

I recognize that you can not do anything until spring but I’ll be willing to assist with the work.

Regards,
Ian Tupman
Technical Architect (retired)

From the initiative we want to thank the interest shown by Alejandro Molina to Accion Sierra Nevada, author of the article reproduced and translated into english (as best I can!) below.

Another way of understanding Sport of Mountaineering

Granada is one of the provinces with most passion for the mountains in Spain and has a set of peaks higher than 3,000 meters very close.

But for some mountaineers to climb is not enough. The last 2 months has seen the light of the ‘Accion Sierra Nevada’ initiative, whose work is already making a very positive note. They have been responsible for important restoration work carried out in the refugios of Caballo and Elorrieta, long demanded by all mountaineers.

Non profit or other claim that care for and maintain the mountain, ‘Accion Sierra Nevada’ was born spontaneously and with social networks as a backdrop. This time it was an English mountaineer who lives in the Alpujarra named Richard Hartley who decided to call on Facebook to find people who would like to restore the Refugio de Caballo. Although the response at first was small, they had the financial support of a friend of Hartley, who sent money from England so they could rent a mule to carry the materials to the refugio. The expedition formed of 3 mountaineers, 2 muleteers and a mule after Richard contacted Jesus Labajo. This represented the birth of ‘Accion Sierra Nevada’.

Labajo Jesus, who for years directed the popular Base Camp radio program, decided to create ‘Accion Sierra Nevada’ without any economic or other claim. The goal being a meeting point among all people who love this mountain. On its website (www.accionsierranevada.com) can be read the platform principles including statements that, besides being non profit, they are apolitical and independent.

Along with Labajo and Hartley, the association MADIF (mutually supportive), has also played an important role in the creation of Accion Sierra Nevada.

During these 2 months the number of members of the initiative have been increasing and have conducted 2 major restoration projects. In the first, a group of mountaineers climbed on October 1 to place a impermeable tarp in the refugio de Elorrieta. The aim was to accumulate in a tank as much snow so that they can have enough water this summer for future restoration work. In turn, funds are being raised through the initiative ‘bricks solidarity’ to carry out future work.

That, in addition, companies such as Sierra Nevada Mammut have donated part of his collection in various activities and will donate one euro for each of the inscriptions Climbing Championship of Andalusia, as well as Spanish Highs, which will also donate one euro each client may have during the winter season. Others like Nivalis transfer their facilities to be able to carry out the meetings.

Harder has been, if anything, the second action that took place in the Refugio de Caballo. The conditions under which this mythical site stood were deplorable, as the main need was the fitting of a door to prevent animals and snow during the winter, which left the hut almost useless for its function. Again, unselfish collaboration marked the work. Thus, the blacksmith Miguel Jimenez, who saw the notice on the Internet, decided to donate an iron door valued at 1,400 euros. The fitting of the door was quite an ordeal, because the weight of the materials and snowfall forced the members to turn around when they were at 2,500 meters. They dropped and left a great part of the materials and returned the following weekend to complete the fitting. May hours of uphill marching and carrying materials. After an interminable time in which there was no lack of snow and wind, the result was a success, and today the Caballo can boast one of the best unguarded refugios in Spain.

Obviously, the direction of the national park is no stranger to this work. As Jesus Labajo explains, “after the first intervention the Park contacted us to get our attention. I look normal because they have to keep track of what is done. Now we have good relationship and we always coordinate with them so they are informed of our activities. ” It must be remembered these refugios currently depend on the national park.

Anyway, ‘Action Sierra Nevada’ is not tied to any institution or association. According Labajo, it is about having an open project for anyone who wants to help. “‘Action Sierra Nevada’,  precisely what is intended is that the door is open to anyone with the desire to do something in the mountains,” says Jesus.

Along with the restoration in the refugios, the initiative aims to develop projects to restore trails and do reforestation work.

Source: www.desafio.ideal.es

Teams carry materials w flank Cerro de Caballo

It’s funny how things develop. In the summer Pepe Badaje, Jesús Labajo Yuste of Campo Base, myself, together with muleteers, Toni and Jonni (not forgetting Pepito the mule!), spent 3 days carrying materials up to 3000m to clean, repair and renovate the badly decrepit Refugio de Caballo. Little did we realise the seed we were creating would grow into a credible initiative that has since gained support from many mountain loving sources, including the Parque Nacional de Sierra Nevada.

At that time we cleaned, painted and put in a new window and repaired the door. Unfortunately our combined resources were not enough to firmly fix the original door and within a week, winds and heavy handed humans had broke it away from it’s hinges. A more professional approach was required. Acción Sierra Nevada itself had developed, mainly due to the efforts of Jesús. We has a Facebook page and also a website. The local spanish community had also started backing the initiative in a big way.

Companies too have backed the initiative donating funds or materials in support. See the list of the participating companies and organisations and a list of collective commitments. Funds are still required to continue the good start we have had. The next refugio for next spring will be the Refugio Elorietta which has already been cleaned of old ironwork. This was done through the Parque Nacional who employed mules for a week. Reforestation and path repair projects may be for the future?

On 30th October I was lucky enough to join another 25 people in helping to take a new door, materials, generator, fuel, table, chairs and materials up to the Refugio del Caballo. We met in Niguelas at 7am and by 11:30 had reached the refugio. Tiring work carrying at nearly 3000m.  Then the professionals took over and within 3 hours we had the strongest, best looking door in the Sierras! The return down the hill took longer than expected due to zero visibility and it was dark by the time our transport was collected. A long but memorable and rewarding day working with fellow mountain loving individuals. Thanks to all for the help and cameraderie!

I urge all those who love these mountains to support Acción Sierra Nevada in whatever way you can. This story shows that together, we can actually make a difference!

Below is a slide show of photos I took from the day.

The old ramshackle door

We must fix the issue before winter. The solution is to take up a new door in good condition. On Saturday September 17th Pepe Badaje, a member of the original restoration team, climbed up to the refuge to measure for a new door. It measures 1.95 by 90 cm, in case anyone has already one that size they dont want! At present, there is a forum member of Nevasport who has offered to produce the new door. That with a stable door construction as at the Carihuela Refuge would be best.

Funds just may be available from the new initiative “Acción Sierra Nevada“. I encourage you to join in with the efforts and/or donations to assist this good cause.

Pepe gave it a sweep inside and collected and removed another garbage bag of litter from the environs of the refuge. The window was not closed properly. It is noteworthy that two weeks after cleaning, it was quite dirty. This makes one think? Why fix it? How hard is to take ones own debris and garbage from the mountain?

I think it is rather a question of education. Thank god for the many who strive to care for the mountains. So, we will continue the fight against these fanatics who call themselves “mountaineers”.

See below for the gallery of the state of the refuge and surrounding area.

Reformation work outside the Refugio de Caballo, Sierra Nevada

Last week we conducted a reformation of the Refugio del Caballo. The initiative came from a few friends and fellow mountain lovers. In three days we managed to clean up the shelter, put in a new window, refix the door that had been torn loose. We also painted the door and window frames and took away all the garbage from inside.

We opened a Facebook Page to support the initiative and welcome any further support. More details of the reformation work and photos

Our friend Jesús Labajo Yuste of Campo Base, who has subsequently negotiated with the National Park reports further…

The National Park learned of our actions with the Refugio del Caballo and afterwards we had a meeting with them and the conclusions of that meeting are excellent:

1. The park is open to this kind of grassroots initiative to improve concrete mountain huts and refuges and other activities in the Sierra Nevada  in general. Any initiative should be communicated in advance to the National Park. That is contrary to the false belief that we have previously had on the Park’s refusal to welcome local initiatives. We will find in future we will have a very good disposition. For the economic times in which we currently live, the Park cannot provide funding, but it will allow any initiative that meets the rules and is respectful of the environment. This is a huge step forward.

2. At the moment another initiative for the Elorrieta Refuge is developing. The National Park is to inform and facilitate the paperwork for the project as well as providing advice. We shall keep you informed on the development of it. When the time comes, the mountaineering community will be called on to actively participating in the restoration work and/or donations to the attainment of the project.

3. It is clear that we live a time of great economic, social and even moral problems. If management fails to act then we (the mountaineers) must take the initiative. The issue of refuges in Sierra Nevada has always been a recurring issue. It is time to act! We now also have the support of the Sierra Nevada National Park. The Refugio de Caballo has been restored with very basic means and very few people, but with lots of enthusiasm and effort. We wish this work to be respected and preserved by all who pass by this Refuge.

Follow the discussion thread on Nevasport Forums at http://www.nevasport.com/phorum/read.php?10%2C2536558

There is now massive support from the local spanish mountaineering community to push things forward. We shall be opening a website specifically for initiatives to restore the old mountain huts. Things are moving in the right direction!

Magical! The refuge and lake in winter

The refuge is in a superb situation below the 3009m summit of the Cerro de Caballo, above the Alpujarras town of Lanjarón, and adjacent to the lake of the same name. In the winter it is snowed up wonderland, except for the state of the refuge that is!

The refuge has steadily been getting worse. In March we saw a photo of the refuge full of snow and litter (see below). With the passage of time and the poor, despicable treatment by those who call themselves “mountain lovers”, it was in a poor state. The door was torn off and the window had gone to be replaced by stones and plastic bags. The floor was uneven and worst of all, there was garbage all over the place. No excuses for leaving litter I’m afraid! It was time for some action.

The bad old days in summer and winter

We set up a Facebook Page “Iniciativa para la restauración de los refugios del Caballo y del Elorrieta” to publicise the problem. Pepe Badaje and myself made an initial visit at the beginning of August 2011. I know nothing about construction but Pepe is indeed a master! We needed to clean, paint, and put on a door and window. The problem though, would the transportation of materials from 2150m at the Ventura trailhead to the refuge at 2850m.

A mule was the obvious answer, but being of simple means the cost of hiring a mule would be too much. Client, Andy Bissaker then came to the rescue with an unbelievable offer of paying for the mule! In these difficult times for all, the assistance from unexpected sources is indeed inspiring.

Travels with Pepito the mule

At 6am on August 20th 2011, together with Pepe Badaje, Jesús Labajo Yuste of Campo Base and muleteers, Toni and Jonni (not forgetting Pepito the mule!), we met at the Ventura trailhead above Lanjarón. We accessed the Rio Lanjarón via the Acequia Alta above the Ventura refugio. Getting a mule along parts of the old acequia was trying at times and took a long time. Once in the river valley we climbed up to the refuge and arrived there by 1pm.

Then it was down to work. Jesus and myself cleaned litter and stones from the building whilst Pepe started on the window. By the end of the day the hut was clean, the ancient wooden replacement window in place and the door frame cemented in. All the accumulated litter was taken back down to Lanjarón which we reached at 8pm, after a 5am start.

Window and concrete mixing

Next day was another incredible 7 hour round trip commute to work! Toni, Jonni and Pepito had slept at the Ventura trailhead. They still had another carry of paint and cement to perform. This time we accessed the refuge via the southern ridge. Some pathless terrain, but better for Pepito than the acequia of the previous day. Kiersten Rowland came along to assist with the painting.

The interior painting went well and the window was completed, but there were some problems with the door frame. It moved! Pepe used his ingenuity and managed to strengthen the frame using counter pressure. Not perfect, but the best we could do given the circumstances. We retired back downhill for the night.

The infamous door and the outside step

We had a day of rest before we ventured uphill again on the Thursday. The most important task was to ensure the door was ok. In addition we had to clear the front and back of the refuge of stones and create a doorstep. We left cleaning materials in the refuge and a spade hung up outside to clear the snow away. When we departed the refuge looked great. But will the door last? Personally, I think not. I think a return trip just may be required. Vamos a Ver!

Finishing touches to the restoration

On our descent down the mountain we were full of contentment. Fulfilled and happy in the knowledge that we had helped to restore an historic and important mountain refuge. It seemed that we were rewarded when we had a fly past from four magnificent Griffon Vultures. Even the Cabra Monteses had no fear of us. Magical times that will live long in the memory. Thank you amigos.

Special thanks to Pepe, Kiersten, Jesús, Toni, Jonni and Andy (also Pepito our wonderful mule). Bonded forever in a common cause.

Also thanks to the Parque Nacional for overlooking our indiscretions and lack of respect for permissions. And for seeing sense!

The plaque we left hanging up says it all…..

“With the humble effort of a mule, 2 drovers and 4 mountaineers. If all who use the refuge care and respect it. Keep it, the lake and the environment clean. Take our garbage and leave the window and door locked when we leave. We will continue to have shelter for many years to come”

Says it all really!

Links to more photos of the work. Please continue to support this initiative which we believe will not and should not stop here! The Parque Nacional have asked us to help with the Refugio del Elorrieta which is also in a bad condition. All help is needed as this would be a much bigger project.

Shovel, exterior and plaque

Depending on which map you use Tajos Altos can be difficult to identify. Sometimes it is just a series of high points on the long ridge running from Pico del Cartujo to the Cerro de Caballo. Sometimes it is marked as a particular point, incorrectly in my opinion! The Tajos Altos I know and love is the prominent “mountain” looking mountain (if you understand what I mean?). From the north and south it is a pyramid. A classic mountain shape. The sort kids draw at school.

Tajos Altos east face dropping down to Laguna de Bolanos

So where is it? From the Pico del Cartujo heading south you will pass over two smaller lumps before meeting the rise up to what I call “Tajos Altos”. On the Penebetica map series for the Sierra Nevada, this is shown as point 3104m. This is the summit. Not the series of lower points further south that the map shows as “Tajos Altos”, nor any of the smaller inconsequential lumps going north.

It’s relatively gentle slopes dropping down west from the  summit are marked as Los Panderones. Rather boring terrain in summer, but superb country for ski tourers during the winter, if approaching from Fuente Fria above Niguelas.

It is to the east however where the dramatic beauty of this mountain is seen at it’s best. Steep cliffs drop sharply to ledges containing probably the finest mountain lakes in the Sierra Nevada, namely Laguna Cuadrada and Laguna de Bolanos. Tranquil places to stay for a night in the mountains. There is a steep scree slope running east some 100m south of the summit. This can provide access from the summit ridge to the lakes.

Laguna Cuadrada and an idyllic campsite location

An ingenious path, the Verea Cortada cuts across this ledge on it’s way from the Cerro de Caballo to the Laguna de Lanjarón and the Refugio Elorrieta. In fact, some 200m north of Laguna Cuadrada,  there is a short section of path where use of a cable/chain is required to cross a short rock gully.

Below this narrow ledge the cliffs tumble down to the lush green pastures of the upper Rio Lanjarón valley. A real shangri-La, especially in the fierce heat of summer.

Tajos Altos is a real mountain and deserves to be known as such. I for one will be back in the winter to try out some of the winter possibilities on the east face.

If you wish more information on Tajos Altos, access, trails etc please contact me. We run two day crossings of the Sierra Nevada that stay at Laguna Cuadrada overnight. These run throughout the snow free months, namely June to November inclusive.

The prominent peak of Tajos Altos from the Refugio de Caballo

More information at Mountain refugios and shelters of the Sierra Nevada

Refugio de Caballo

During last winter we noticed a deterioration of the refuge. The door had come off it’s hinges and the window areas were worsening and becoming open to the elements. More horrifically, the place was strewn with debris and rubbish left by those “mountain lovers” who had been staying there.

This has prompted a response by local folk from Lanjarón, who are planning to repair and clean up the refuge during this coming summer. We aim to clean all the rubbish and litter away,  repair the door, make the window areas weatherproof and generally give the place a makeover.

If anybody is interested in helping out please contact me on this site or Pepe Badaje on his spanish site. The snow is retreating fast now and we shall be making an initial survey into the requirements in the next couple of weeks and plan to do the work in August.

We do have a Facebook Page so you can show your support.

Photo below of what we discovered during last winter!!!!!

Snow, rubbish, disrepair. This hut needs you!

Upper Rio Lanjaron in mid summer

The waters gather at high lakes at the head of the Rio Lanjaron, just below the Elorietta refugio. The Laguna de Lanjaron, Laguna Cuadrada and countless smaller lakes are buried under winter snows for over 6 months of the year and this provides the key. Much water is filtered through the mountainsides on its long journey downhill before finally appearing as natural springs.

The Rio gathers water from the slopes of  Tajos de los Machos and the long western mountain limb culminating in the Cerro de Caballo. At times, especially in early winter, there is a raging torrent that threatens bridges and fields. In late summer the Rio can become a simple trickle of water.

Local man, Pepe Badaje, has installed the webcam at his cortijo alongside the river. Visit his website.

Watch live video from pepebadaje on Justin.tv

Late summer at the Laguna Cuadrada

The upper Rio Lanjaron in May 2010!

James writes…………………………………………………..

Warming up in the Caldera

“The 5 day traverse (A.K.A. Los Tres Miles, A.K.A. The Integrale) is a 5 day across the main ridge line of the Sierra Nevada from Lanjaron in the South-West to Jerez de Marquesado in the North-East. The trip takes you to the summit of almost every mountain above 3000 metres in the mountain range including mainland Spain’s highest mountain, Mulhacen (3,479m). The following is a report of my first time guiding a client on this trip.

Day 1: Ventura Trail Head – Ellorieta Hut
As we set off, Damien (The Client) went off at quite a pace and for the first twenty minutes or so I thought we were gonna make good time throughout the trip as he seemed to like going at a good speed. However, after twenty minutes I could see that he had already done himself in with the pace he was trying to set. That is not a criticism as he did complete the whole traverse within five days which is quite an accomplishment for a retiree. However, this did mean that we had a very long 7½ hour day ahead of us before we reached the Ellorieta Hut. In fact it was almost completely dark by the time we reached the hut and he was so exhausted on the final ascent to the hut that I decided to go on ahead, drop my pack off and come back down to carry his rucksack for him. We had made OK time from the Ventura to the summit of Caballo but then the section from Caballo to Ellorieta took over 4 hours which is not ideal when you have already had a late start. At the hut I had a lucky find, there was an abandoned Spiderman cushion which I took with me for the rest of the trip and allowed for much more comfortable sleeping. Next time I stay at a hut I will leave the cushion behind for the next person to use.

Day 2: Ellorieta Hut – Caldera Hut
To my relief, the normal traverse from the Ellorieta to the col below Veleta had shed some of its compacted ice since the previous week when I had been there with another client but had needed to turn back due to the risk factor and lack of crampons.

Snowy traverse from Ellorieta Hut (Caballo summit in background)

Luckily, on this trip we did have crampons and the traverse was nice and easy once these had been deployed. This saved us a good three to four hour detour back around the summit of Cartujo, into the valley and then up to the col. After reaching the col, we headed up to the summit of Veleta (3,398m) and then followed the road round to the Caldera. Once again, we had to put our crampons on for a daft one metre section of ice in order to descend to the hut. We were not alone at the hut and in total there were seven of us and one small dog.

Day 3: Caldera Hut – Siete Lagunas (via Alcazaba)
We had a relatively long ascent from the hut to the summit of Mulhacen. It took us an hour and a half to climb 400 metres when this would normally take under an hour with most clients. However, we got to the summit in perfect weather and plenty of time to descend to Siete Lagunas, drop Damien’s rucksack and head up to Alcazaba (3,364m) and back to Siete Lagunas again where we would be camping.

Camping at Siete Lagunas

The purpose of doing Alcazaba in the same day as Mulhacen is to cut the following day shorter because otherwise you add a good two hour round trip of going up Alcazaba before heading off toward Vacares. Damien had a one-man tent with him but since I only had a bivvy bag, I opted to sleep in one of the very cosy caves around the lake. Later on, we met up with Jens who would take over as lead guide for the rest of the trip. After Damien had gone to bed, Jens was in the middle of telling me about a really cheeky fox who roams around Siete Lagunas, when suddenly his food bag had disappeared attached to the mouth of the very same fox! Luckily the bag was too heavy for him to get away with but he ran straight around to my cave and practically went through my legs to get inside where I had him cornered and it took quite a bit of convincing to get him to piss off! Later in the night I woke up with the same fox staring me in the face but he didn’t manage to get away with anything important.

Alcazaba summit approach (North Face of Mulhacen in background)

Day 4: Siete Lagunas – Laguna de Juntillas
We skirted around the North-East ridge of Alcazaba and headed up toward the summit of Vacares and then on across a scrambly ridge of numerous 3,000 metre plus summits for the next seven hours. This was my first experience of the mountain range North of Alcazaba and it was very different to the previous three days. Damien was certainly pushed to his absolute limits on this day and nearly gave up the attempt to get all the way to Jerez de Marquesado by threatening to opt for a shorter route to Trevelez. However, with encouragement from Jens we managed to get him all the way to our campsite at Laguna de Juntillas. I had never been to this part of the mountain range but the lake was an ideal wild camping spot with the snow-covered North Faces of Alcazaba and Mulhacen as the back drop to the lake. It was also a very mild night with temperatures above freezing even on the summit of Mulhacen which allowed me to keep my head out of my bivvy bag to look at the shooting stars rather than seal myself in a cocoon of eVent fabric.

Day 5: Laguna de Juntillas – Jerez de Marquesado
After breakfast we started the short but very steep ascent to the summit of Pico de Jerez and after 5 days of walking with a heavy pack, Damien was climbing as if he were making an ascent of Everest without bottled oxygen. However, once we were at the summit, which took about an hour, the rest was all downhill to the town and a nice cold beer.

View after descent from Pico de Jerez

The valley above the town leading to the summit is so different to the rest of the mountain range with bright green foliage and dense pine forests that you could almost imagine yourself in a French Alpine valley in the middle of summer. We finally arrived in town to meet Richard after a relatively easy 5½ hr day and after a quick beer in a local bar we headed back to Lanjaron where I had considerably more beers at a local bar there.”

Golden Poplar trees in the Jerez valley