Reaching the summit ridge

We had headed up under a hot sun from Puente Palo, bound for the ruined hut at Cebollar. A stiff 800m ascent under a hot sun and ridiculous temperatures for February. Snow conditions were poor, soft and avalanche prone. With me were companions Sieto and David. Most main snow faces were fully charged with snow waiting to fall and Sieto wanted training for his Denali climb. But, where on earth could I find some safe 50 degree ice to fix ropes and imitate the west buttress headwall of Denali?

After a tranquil bivouac in the ruined Cebollar hut we awoke to find the snow hard and icy. The first surprise came as the overnight lows of -1 had just done their job and hardened the snow up nicely. We headed up the easy angled slopes of Las Alegas practicing various crampon techniques along the way. Although not complete there are some interesting lines of simple mixed climbing here that can be made harder or easier to suit.

A steep icy corner

We fixed rope down a suitably steep incline and Sieto practiced his jumaring skills with and without 50l pack. Then we found some sections where he could utilise 2 axes and front point his way up. When all around us the snow was melting in the heat, our west facing slopes and gullies remained in shadow. All in all a very satisfactory morning on perfect neve snow/ice.

As we made our way back down towards the Cebollar hut we enjoyed half an hour practicing our ice axe braking skills. Again the sun had not yet had a major impact. A brief stop at the hut for refreshments and then it was time to head down.

Glissading down to the Rio Chico

Next surprise was that the snow was sufficiently hard to not warrant the use of snowshoes. Instead of the traverse we opted for a direct route down to the Rio Chico. Very direct. Apart from a few steps we enjoyed some perfect glissading conditions that brought us to the Rio Chico in under 15 minutes, a drop of some 300m!

In the Rio Chico itself we met soft unstable snows. Snow bridges over the river were in a state of collapse and great care was required to remain dry. We crossed the Rio and headed back on a traverse line towards the Puente Palo forest. Snowshoes had to be removed on some steep traversing slopes and we had some frustrating moments in deep snows.

By 5pm we had met our waiting transport and were returning for a welcoming beer back in Lanjaron. We had enjoyed fine winter mountain trekking, mountaineering and snowshoeing in wonderful mountain scenery. Not another soul was met in the two day trip.

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Skiing the ridge above the Barranco de San Juan

Sources to the 112 Emergency Service in Andalucia said they received several calls from individuals around 13.30 hours on Sunday warning of the avalanche. The Guardia Civil Mountain Rescue and Intervention (Sereim) mobilized emergency helicopter and rescue dogs to help find the man. It is not clear if there might be more people under the snow.

We have been warning of the dangers after the last substantial snowfall and much care is required, although our guides reported yesterday from Mulhacen that consolidation of the snowpack on certain slopes has begun.

Yesterday, 29th January 2011, between 13:00 and 13:30, there was an avalanche in one of the couloirs of the northeast face of the “Pico Buitre”, in the municipality of Abla (Almería). It carried down two mountaineers. One of them was buried five feet deep, the other was partially buried to the waist. One could break free and then followed the rope that bound them together. It took twenty minutes to dig up his friend and luckily he was still alive. The consequences: the buried guy had severe hypothermia and a severe sprain in his left knee. The two were evacuated to Almeria Airport. Thanks to two climbers in the area who selflessly gave up their mountain day to help and make phone calls.

The ridge of the Pico del Cartujo

Last Sunday, 21st March, about half a metre of new powder fell above 2500m. Yesterday, the 22nd, I was on-piste skiing at the ski centre, in incredibly warm, almost May-type conditions. Spring snow and slush on piste. Heavy wet crud off-piste. Ski touring will be very testing for a few days until the situation settles down.

Much care is necessary though at the moment, especially at the normal blackspots (see link below). The approach to the Elorietta hut from Pradollano should be avoided.

Avalanche blackspots in the Sierra Nevada.

But then, how is it to be policed? Is this taking away our right to roam free at our own risk in the mountains? Like all things “health and safety” these days, why do we need to have these laws, when we should be allowed our own personal responsibility? Is the mountain adventure to be taken away?

This is a massive subject and will no doubt cause big debate. I, myself, am all for increasing training and awareness rather than for laws and policing. I will pack up my ski’s for good if the day ever comes when the Sierra Nevada is forced, by do-gooders, to introduce such laws.

Italian authorities in the Piedmonte region have passed a law making it mandatory for off-piste skiers and snowboarders to carry avalanche safety gear. You now must be equipped with an avalanche beacon, shovel, and probe, if heading out of marked ski runs. The law also applies to ski mountaineering.

Fines are up to €250 if found without the required gear and insurance policies also may be declared invalid. Until now skiers only have been obliged to carry avalanche beacons if there was an obvious risk of avalanche (risk 3 or above) under the national law passed in 2003.

It is hoped the new law will significantly reduce the number of tragic accidents during the winter period. Rescuers found the bodies of five French ski-mountaineers swept away by an avalanche in Piedmont in May 2008. The bodies were found shortly after dawn following a suspension of the search overnight because of poor visibility and bad weather.

The mountains of Piedmont provided a unique backdrop for the Torino 2006 Winter Olympics. The region features 53 ski resorts, 1300 kilometres of runs, and 300 chair lifts and cableways. Some of the most popular ski resorts in the area include Valle di Susa, Sestriere, Vialattea, Claviere, Montagnedoc, Pragelato, Val Chisone, and Val Germanasca.

Ideally, avoiding avalanches in the first place is much easier than trying to survive one. Avalanche safety begins even before you begin your travel. In addition to keeping an eye out for weather and terrain conditions, there are steps you can take ahead of time to help you or other members of your party if you are caught in an avalanche.

Proper equipment can be a critical factor in rescue efforts. Avalanches kill in two ways. A victim will either endure fatal trauma (collisions with rocks or trees) during an avalanche, or will suffocate after they are buried by snow. While trauma deaths occur before rescue can take place, the more common suffocation deaths are often tragic because with the proper equipment and expertise, they can be avoided.

Portable shovels made of plastic and aluminum are lightweight and compact enough that they can be carried in a pack. Digging with a shovel, as opposed to using hands or ski poles, can dramatically decrease the time it takes to dig out a victim. Digging by hand takes an average of 45 minutes to dig out one square meter of snow. Using a shovel to dig out the same amount of snow takes less than ten minutes.

Collapsible probes or ski-pole probes are also easy to carry along. Collapsible probes usually consist of two-foot lengths of tubular steel that join together to make a probe ten to twelve feet long. Ski-pole probes are made so that grips and baskets can be removed. The two poles can then be joined together to form a probe. Probing is essential to finding a buried victim if there are no visible clues on the surface.

Avalanche beacons (transceivers) are the most commonly used rescue device, and are standard equipment for ski-area patrollers and heli-ski operators. When properly used, they provide the fastest way of locating a victim. When a victim is buried, the transceiver will emit a frequency that other transceivers can home in on. However, it is critical to have the transceiver set to “transmit” during your outing. When trying to locate a buried victim, rescuers will then switch their transceivers to “receive” to locate the signal. Unfortunately, avalanche deaths have occurred due to the fact that the victims had their transceiver switched to “receive” rather than “transmit.” Consequently, rescuers could not locate them in time.

Remember that more than one transceiver unit is required. A transceiver will not help locate a victim who is not also wearing one. Likewise, a victim with a transmitting beacon may not be found unless someone else has a transceiver to pick up that signal.

Using beacons requires practice. Homing in on a buried signal involves moving in increasingly smaller circles around the area of the signal. When purchasing a unit, learn how to use it properly, and practice using it frequently. Make sure those in your party carrying transceivers understand how to use them.

Time is of the essence. Carrying this equipment may mean the difference between life and death for someone buried in an avalanche. Statistics show that most survivors are dug out within 15 to 30 minutes. For victims buried longer than 30 minutes, survival chances decrease drastically. In fact, U.S. statistics show that victims buried longer than 45 minutes rarely survive. Depth of burial is also a factor in surviving, but even if a victim is near the surface, the length of time it takes to locate them and dig them out can still be the critical factor.

Source: National Snow and Ice Data Centre

The sheets of ice that formed 2 weeks ago have been covered by at least a metre of new snow that has fallen in the past few days. Some of this ice is still bare on the crest of wind blown ridges. Under these conditions, avalanches can occur not only on steep slopes, but almost anywhere you see a drop.

I have received warnings from the   Federation of Andalusian Mountaineering and Safety Program of the National Park. They warn of high avalanche danger in the mountains during the next few days, especially as the weather conditions are now improving.

The mountains are dangerous at the moment. Be very careful or better still leave it a few days before reviewing the situation. If you want any up to date information, advice or help, please contact us using the “Contact Form” above

The photo below was taken yesterday from the Sierra de   Lugar and shows Mulhacen from the south. The Poqueira Hut at 2500m can be seen in the centre of the photo in a sunlit bowl. Snow level is 1800m and is deep above 2000m. Snowshoes may be required. The high winds can be seen blowing snow on the south ridge to the right.

These avalanches are often triggered by skiers and account for many skiing accidents.

It was previously thought slab avalanches were caused by shear cracks, in which one layer of snow slides off another.

But a team at the University of Edinburgh report today that the main cause of slab avalanches could be fractures under the surface known as anticracks.

These cause a layer of snow to crumble inwardly.

Anticracks have been found to cause fractures over large distances in snow. They can spread not only on steep slopes but on gentle slopes and even on the flat.

This type of crack is known to play a role in earthquakes, but their relevance for snow avalanches was a surprise to the researchers.

Joachim Heierli, of the University of Edinburgh’s Centre for Materials Science and Engineering, said: “It was thought that slab avalanches were caused by a section of snow simply slipping off other layers. However, when we took a closer look, we saw that something quite different was going on.

“Our discoveries complete a piece of the puzzle of how avalanches occur – we hope this will help to pinpoint dangerous tell-tale signs and so avoid unnecessary dangers to people on mountains.”

The research is published in the journal Science.