The route up the south ridge of Mulhacen from the Hoya del Portillo may not be the most exciting in the world but at least it gives a high start point. An early start meant the 8 of us avoided the searing heat of the lower Alpujarras and we had the cool of the morning for the ascent.

Veleta and Cerro de los Machos, upper Rio Chico

No snow affects the old dirt track at the moment and progress was rapid up to the Mirador de Trevelez where we stopped for breakfast and to admire the views down to Trevelez. The bus from Capileira arrived during breakfast break unfortunately and disgorged a number of unsuitably clad walkers dressed in beachwear looking for Mulhacen!

Then it was a slow plod up the south ridge, enlivened by the clear views over to Veleta and the Tajos de los Machos range and also by a couple of Griffon Vultures who graced us with their presence.

Griffon Vultures above Mulhacen south ridge

As we rested by the summit cairn not a breath of wind blew. Up above a couple of booted eagles played in the thermals. The heat lower down meant that distant views were hazy but the whole range of the Sierra Nevada was laid bare. As it was a bank holiday in Spain there were a few other walkers around.

At this point the 3 of us who were continuing on (Iris Bogaerts, James Jackson and myself) said our farewells to our 5 companions, who descended via the west flank, returning to the fiestas in Lanjaron. We skirted round the east ridge and dropped down to our overnight camp at Cañada de Siete Lagunas.

Camp at Siete Lagunas

No matter how many times I have been here I am always startled by the majesty of the place. Lovely cold icy lakes and lush grasses make it an ideal overnight stop. With less weight and a bit more energy we would have moved up to Laguna Alta, the quietest place to stay in a magnificent glacial cirque. Instead we opted for Laguna Hondera at the entrance to the valley.

On previous visits we had been plagued by foxes intent on plundering our meagre food stocks. This time we had no issues although we did try a anti-fox beacon as a deterrent. Maybe it worked or maybe the dogs camping around there with their owners put off  ”los Ladrones“!

Next morning we ascended the valley to the glacial cirque at the head. Blue skies, sun and dramatic backdrops made this a beautiful setting. Ice still covered some of the lakes. We ascended via a steep scree slope and then a slanting rake to find our way through the upper crags of Alcazaba and broke out onto the upper plateau.

The icy Laguna Alta at Siete Lagunas

Now it was an easy walk round to the summit of Alcazaba (the Fortress). This is well named. The mountain is surrounded on most sides by cliffs and there are few escape routes, usually to the SE. We sat for an hour on the summit admiring the view north towards the Puntal de Vacares and south west to the main ridge of the Sierras. Alpine Swifts weaved between the summit rocks. Northern Wheatears and Alpine Accentors hunted for leftover crumbs from our sandwiches.

Mulhacen from near the summit of Alcazaba

Clouds began to form from the east so it was down to the south east exit from the plateau. There is a way north to break through the Alcazaba cliffs if you are heading towards Vacares but it is steep loose and a certain amount of scrambling is required. We made it back to our camping site in good time. Not another sole had been seen on our trip to Alcazaba.

The ridge north to Puntal de Vacares

The weather was changing and bad weather was forecast for that evening. We decided to drop a bit lower and make a possible retreat much easier. Below the spectacular waterfall of Chorreras Negras the infantile Rio Culo del Perro (Dogs Arse River!) plunges down to a green area known as El Vertedero. Here we set up camp aside the stream. As night fell we realised we had made a mistake. This area is used as a base for a herd of cows! Worse still, they all have loud bells round their necks, alpine style!

During the night the sound of bells was soon drowned out by the sound of heavy rainfall accompanied by spectacular lightning displays. At this point I realised that my faithful old North Face Gore Tex bivvy bag was not as faithful as I had thought. It leaked from numerous seams. In the morning, during a lull in the rain, we packed up hastily and retreated to the Refugio de Campiñuela for breakfast.

Shelter at the Campiñuela ruins

Then it was a short 2 hour walk down to Trevelez, reputed to be the highest village in Spain, for a welcome beer and a return to civilisation.

Spanish Highs Mountain Guides run multi day treks in the Sierra Nevada on a regular basis on demand throughout the summer.

Full Photo Gallery from the trip

Another 10 minutes and I had reached the green paradise of Lagunillas. These small lakes still had snow banks clinging to their sides. The snow contrasted with the vivid greens of the borreguiles pastures. Time to stretch out and contemplate the meaning of life! On the way back a friendly bird (Alpine Accentor or Northern Wheatear?) sat quietly to let me take his photo.

The area is well worth a half day visit if you are suffering with the fierce temperatures of Granada!