Early morning sun on Tajos de la Virgen ridge

"Is this really southern Spain?"

It does take some application, but we managed to set off from our base in Lanjaron at 2am and reached the Hoya de la Mora above the ski area at 3am. A leisurely walk up the northern slopes of Veleta followed aiming for the Collado de Cariguela at first light. The mountains are wonderful places to be a night. Shooting stars, planets, a distant electrical storm far away in Murcia. While, seemingly the whole world sleeps, you crunch up through the snows.

We reached the Col de Cariguela at 6:30am. First light. Snow hard and crispy. Perfect climbing conditions. The Tajos de la Virgen ridge awaited us. The ridge runs from the col SW towards the Elorrieta hut and the Lanjaron Valley.

First surprise was that there was a fine snow arete to start off with. Instead of scrambling over blocky boulders we were able to walk along the crest of a fine snow ridge. Occasionally rocky steps intervened but we reached the first crux just as the first rays of the sun came over the top of Mulhacen to our east.

The traverse on the first step

We took our crampons off for this next section, an exposed scramble along rising ramps on the NW side of the ridge. This led back to the crest where we resumed our snowy amble along delightful ridge sections.

We arrived at the Fraile de Capileira a 30m pinnacle easily visible from afar. Not being up for the hard climb to the top we bypassed the massive gendarme and traversed down to the second crux where a rock face blocks the way.

Some snow slopes off to our left looked very entertaining and would have provided excellent sport, but we elected for a slanting traverse and then a shallow ramp leading back right to the skyline. Other options exist here.

Descending to the second step

By this time we had spent 3 hours on the ridge and the snow was beginning to turn. Rather than finish up the blocky ridge to the Elorrieta refugio we decided to descend some very steep ground to link with the normal track between Laguna de las Yeguas and the Elorrieta. This involved some delicate crampon work and a cool head.

Traverses skyline R to L. Descent route shown in red

By 11am the snow had got heavy. We made the normal path and followed this back to the Hoya de la Mora, drove back through 36 deg heat in Granada and hence for some welcome beers in Lanjaron. We felt like spacemen returning from the planet “Zog”!

This ridge is an entertaining scramble in summer and a graded winter mountaineering route (AD-/PD+).  Easier or harder options exist along the route. Thanks to fellow mountaineers, Kiersten Rowland, Jane Fields and Pepe Badaje for making it such a classic and memorable day.

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In Fred Zinneman’s 1984 film “5 days one Summer”, Sean Connery plays the part of a pre-war climber in the Alps. Driven by a burning desire to conquer peaks (and, it must be said, to pursue his affair with his niece) he pushes onwards and upwards, as it were, regardless of the dangers. We are treated to some superb climbing footage and some toe curling tension before it all goes fairly wrong – for someone at least.

The Tajos de la Virgen ridge

This summer we spent 5 days in the Sierra Nevada, with two days being devoted to a traverse of the range from North to South. This was a guided trek using Spanish Highs as our guides. The route had been chosen to give a balance between physical challenge and overall mountain experience. Part of this experience involved roughing it overnight in a deserted high altitude hospital, with the expectation of some attention from local foxes overnight and the distinct possibility of a glimpse of the Atlas Mountains of North Africa.

The timing of the trip was mid June. We knew we would be trekking over compacted snow and came equipped with crampons and axes, but with the weather set fair we expected a warm trek with no particular problems. It did seem a little strange packing for Malaga airport with bags full of winter gear.

The 2010/11 winter season had brought heavy snows to the Sierra Nevada, including a few late dumps in April and May. As we drove from our base in the lovely town of Lanjaron it became apparent that there was a good deal more snow on the upper reaches than we had expected.

Ice axe braking practice

Starting from Hoya de la Mora (2500m) above the ski resort we set off mid morning at a modest pace, expecting a strenuous but uncomplicated 7 hour trek. There was still some snow around even at this level of 7000 ft but it was not until we had risen by another 1000 ft that we were permanently on snow.

As always the chat was pleasant and light hearted, and the presence of two dogs made the morning all the more entertaining. The intention was that by lunchtime Khumbu the Husky would return with Kiersten, leaving Max as our overnight fox deterrent.

Lunch was followed by some training in ice axe braking techniques, and we gamely pushed on in the warm sun -now all wearing crampons. As we began the long traverse of the North Face under Veleta we could see the slope steepening and becoming convex as it gained ground towards Refugio Elorrieta.

The odd slip and stumble was inevitable for those of us who don’t don crampons every day, and the ice axe technique training gave us the confidence that if we did slip we could arrest ourselves quickly and prevent too much damage being done. However, the footing became more unsure as the slope steepened, and the sight of a distant ski tourer in apparent difficulty nearer the crest started to raise the silent possibility in our minds that things were going to get even more difficult for our group.

The group crossing snows below the ridge

This proved to be the case just a short while later when one of our troop disappeared up to his waist as the snow gave way suddenly. It didn’t blunt his sense of humour, but it caused others to lose a little of their self confidence on the narrow path we were treading. Moments such as these are crucial, because important decisions need to be taken. My personal view is that these decisions are best taken by those with mountain experience and local knowledge. Although many experiences such as this are aimed at taking you out of your comfort zone, the greater part always has to be about personal safety.

Having read the conditions, and no doubt assessed the behaviour of all those in the group, our guide decided that we should not risk the unstable ground ahead, particularly in the heat of the afternoon sun, as it represented too great an avalanche risk. Avalanche risk? In the Sierra Nevada in June? Are you kidding? Well no actually, and this was a conversation we didn’t need to have. We gamely retreated and retraced the route we had taken for the previous three and a half hours.

The marvellous Tajos de la Virgen ridge

There would be no overnight stay under the stars, and no tussle with the local foxes. However, there was some useful training in crampon technique, and the experience gained of how a set of adverse conditions should be assessed, and self preservation maintained. That evening there was also plenty of good conversation among all of us, and a good deal of cold beer, tapas and good wine.

However, we heard only today of two falls very close to the point where we turned around. One of these was serious. It seems our decision was vindicated, although I needed no reassurance of this.

The “no fear” society of today needs to learn that retreat is not necessarily defeat. After all, the mountain will still be there tomorrow – make sure you are too.

We travelled to the Sierra Nevada to meet Spanish Highs. Our party was Mervyn Ham (54), Joe Ham (23), and Nicholas Travers-Wakeford (24). We were pleased to be guided on the mountain by Richard Hartley, and accompanied by Kiersten Rowland, her dogs Max and Khumbu, and Pepe Badaje – surely the happiest man on the mountain.

Max, fox deterrent!

On the Loma de San Juan ridge

We skinned up past the Virgen de las Nieves and up keeping as far away from the ski pistes as we could. At the 2750m level we dropped into the upper San Juan bowl via a side entry which avoided some laden overhanging cornices.

The valley floor was full of over half a metre of new snow, dumped from the previous night. There was no wind here and our skis glided silently across the virgin snows. As we climbed up the steepening snows to the ridge beyond the winds increased and blew spindrift across our paths.

The wind became bittery cold at this point and we wasted no time in ascending to the ridge, which we then traversed south towards Veleta. Some sections of hard water ice had to be by-passed en route.

Winds blowing spindrift. Coral de Veleta

At the small col below Los Posiciones we were treated to the sight of the Coral de Veleta beneath our feet. To the right a huge plume of driving snow billowed out from the cornices bordering the Coral. No doubt about how cornices are formed!

To the east the peaks of Alcazaba and Mulhacen looked Himalayan in stature.

Then it was onwards and upwards to join the ski pistes at Los Posiciones. We opted for a descent alongside the ski pistes and within 10 minutes were back to the car. A simple but fantastic ski tour doable most good days in winter.

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The Sierra Nevada makes a great ski holiday destination for all inclusive holidays 2011

Join us for ski touring tours in the Sierra Nevada from December to May inclusive each winter

cerro de los machos (right)

The 41 year old man was rescued yesterday in a serious condition by a Guardia Civil helicopter after falling from a height of about two hundred meters while practicing alpine climbing on Cerro de los Machos to the east of Veleta.

Due to difficult access on the west side of the Hoya de la Mora (the ski side) the recovery lasted for about three hours and involved much equipment and human resources, reported the Service Mountain Rescue and Intervention (Sereim) of the Guardia Civil de Granada.

The first warning came at 13.20 pm by a fellow climber who said the injured climber had been isolated after falling while climbing. Once rescued, the wounded man was taken to the Trauma Hospital of Granada where he is being treated for his injuries.

Reports suggest that the entry into the Coral from Los Posiciones is quite straightforward, with no great cornice difficulty, although one should keep vigilant as there is very steep ground below as one traverses on powder snow into the main part of the coral.

The Canuto rising up to the left of Veleta summit (from Posiciones)

The traverse into the Canuto itself is on 55 degree slopes alternating between hard and powder snow.

The canuto rises at 55 deg consistently to the col. It consists of good snows alternating with sections of ice crusted surfaces with powder below. The final rise from the col up the Fidel Fierro rock climb (diff/v.diff) climb is clean and straightforward.

Note. The Sierra Nevada is not a well known winter climbing and mountaineering destination, but it deserves better publicity. The routes are wild and at times remote. Few other humans are seen and snow and ice is guaranteed for at least 5 months of the year. The climbing has a certain exploratory feel to it.  It makes an ideal Last Minute Holiday destination, being only 2 hours from Malaga airport. A long weekend visit arriving and approaching the huts Friday, leaving Sunday, with two full days mountaineering, is possible.

More information can be gained through our Online Winter Mountaineering Guidebook. We have a Sierra Nevada Support Service for climbers and mountaineers that can help with transport, accommodation, gas and snow and route advice.

Otherwise, you could always join one of our frequent winter skills courses or alpine introduction courses that run throughout the winter season.

Access Locations:
(1) Hoya de la Mora (2500m). Follow the ski road from Granada to the ski town. Follow the signs left for œVeleta above the town and reach a car park at the road end. Good quick access for Veleta, Los Machos and Catujo sectors. Cariguela hut is 3hrs from here.

(2) Cortijuela (1700m). Follow the road through La Zubia towards the Cumbres Verdes. Continue on past Fuente del Hervidero to the Cortijuela. Good for access to Dilar and Cartujo sectors.

(3) Fuente Fria (Dehesa de Durcal) (2150m). Follow the rough track above Niguelas going up the gorge. Keep going until the Cortijos de Echevaria are reached. Continue traversing NE on poor track until the road end at Fuente Fria. 4WD only. Good for Caballo and Cartujo access from the west.

(4) Ventura trailhead (2100m). Follow the track up the side of El Frenazo restaurant in Lanjaron. Signs lead in 45 mins to the Ventura trailhead. 15 mins to ruined Ventura hut. 3hrs to hut at Laguna de Caballo. At times 4WD necessary.

(5) Puente Palo (1750m). Above the village of Ca±ar and accessible from either Orgiva or Lanjaron (40 mins). Rough track but 4WD not necessary. Start point for Tajos de los Machos. 2 hours to Cebollar hut from here. Elorrieta is 5 hours and 1500m ascent!

(6) Casa Forestal La Pluca (2225m). East side of Las Alegas above the western flank of the Poqueira Gorge. Access from Soportujar (30 mins) on rough track. High access to Tajos de los Machos and Elorrieta hut (4hrs).

(7) Centro Electrico Cebadilla (1500m). Main sheltered route to Poqueira Hut in winter if snow low down. Just a 15 min drive above Capileira. Hut is 3 hours from here.

(8 ) Hoya de Portillo (2150m). A rough track above Capileira leads in 25 mins to the road end at a barrier by a ranger station. 4WD not normally necessary. Track upwards through the forest leads either to the Poqueira hut (3hrs) or the south ridge of Mulhacen. 2.5hrs to the Poqueira Hut. 5 hours to the Cariguela hut.

(9) Trevelez (1600m). The town is good for access to Alcazaba via Siete Lagunas (2900m).

(10) Jerez de Marsquesado. Normally start or end point for Los Tres Miles full ridge traverse. Long unrelenting ascent is necessary from here!

(11) Verada de Estrella. Via the town of Guejar Sierra. Follow the road through the town and via a series of road tunnels either side of the Genil river. Finally you arrive at the road end when there is ample car space available. Access the N and NW sides of Mulhacen, Alcazaba, Puntal de la Caldera from here. Also the Lanchar ridge can be started from here. 2hrs to the Cueva Sectreta bivouac site.

It is at it’s best late spring or early summer when the snow still lies around. The area is teeming with life is surrounded by some of the highest peaks in the Sierras. The small series of lakes at Lagunillas de la Virgen is a great place to while away the hours.

The outward trip from Borreguiles only takes a hours leisurely walk. Return can be made via much harder options in the mountains surrounding you or via the lower chairlift station and the rough track towards the Radio telescope that dominates the ridgeline nearby.

This photo is of our Leonberger dog, Bruno, enjoying himself in one of the many lakes.

The Coordinator of Emergency Services received a call at 8.25 am in the morning when he was alerted to the accident. The emergency Services and Mountain Rescue and Intervention (Sereim) de la Guardia Civil de Granada were mobilised and went to the scene of the accident where the man was found dead.

At the moment the huge amount of snow over the winter has left wide deep crevasses. Most unusual for the Sierra Nevada. The Coral de Veleta is difficult to access so a helicopter also responded. The man had already died when the rescue services got to the scene and recovered the body which as taken to Granada, where an autopsy will be preformed to determine the specific causes of death.

There is a panorama close up view below which labels all the major peaks.

panorama of the Sierra Nevada mountains

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Jakub on the summit of Mulhacen

Shot recently, there is good footage of the abseil descent into the Coral de Veleta, climbing on the near vertical north wall, an ascent up the Corredor del Veleta. and a descent through the deserted ski pistes towards sunset. Well put together with good music.

c o r d a d a s from lokofilms on Vimeo.

Also:
Winter Mountaineering and Alpine Introduction courses, Sierra Nevada
Support for self guided mountaineering groups