It commands a wide panoramic view stretching from the Hoya de Guadix-Baza to the ridges of the Sierra Nevada mountain peaks and lies at the foot of the Picon de Jerez, halfway between the Jerez de Marquesado and the high village of Trevélez in the Alpujarras. Despite being well integrated into the environment it can be easily distinguished from higher areas because of it’s situation within a prominent forest firebreak.

The source and inspiration for some of this article can be found and downloaded in spanish here including photos reproduced here.

In the early 90′s, the Comité de Refugios de la Federación Andaluza raised the need for a refuge in this area. It was initially called the Refugio Ballesteros, in fact, even today that can be found under that name in some legal documents.

In 1994 the works began, performed by Tragsa under the National Plan of Mountain Refuges, jointly funded by the Higher Sports Council and the Board of Andalusia.

It was finally finished and inaugurated in 1996. It is owned by the Junta de Andalucía, in the recent past through Egmasa, now through the Ministry of Environment itself. The Andalusian Federation (FAM) aims to promote and develop the practice of mountaineering using the hut as a base.

Characteristics of the Refuge.

The Postero Alto refugio

The location meets the criteria for use as a refuge ie is easily reachable from the summits, and at the same time, it is in harmony with the environment. The construction of the shelter is modeled on several ruins of old mining towns. The refuge is based on three levels forming three concentric circles linked by semi-covered alleyways. At the core is the common living room, dining room, storage and housing of the guardian. In the next circle are toilets and general services, woodshed, etc. And in the outer ring, the bedrooms and dormitories.

Its design is thought through following several criteria:

1 – optimization of resources and recycled materials and 2-3 – its resemblance to the mining town. This is reflected in the following aspects: the set is defined by a small village huddled, harmonized with the landscape and built with stone from the region. The windows are small and irregular to allow light to enter without reducing its insulating ability walls. The chimneys are painted with rust from the mine, to increase the similarity to the mining town. The wooden structure from recycled railroad rails and telephone poles, giving it a rustic feel. Likewise the pavement is of local clay tiles. The area of common living room and dining room make up the largest area  forming a large space and a unique atmosphere.

In the spring of 2010, after 14 years, a complete renovation was performed to make essential repairs, waterproofing of the roof, replacement of carpentry, moisture correction, adaptation, accessibility, improved electrical system, adequacy of rooms, etc. Currently, the Refuge is in a great condition for use in outdoor activities.

Services

It is open daily from June 15 to September 15. The rest of the year it is open weekends, bank holidays, even on some weekdays. The capacity is 65 beds, distributed into 7 independent rooms with named appropriately Alhorí, Picon, Gallo, Sabina, Swifts, Lobos, etc

The water comes from a spring located on the hill itself, a few metres above. The refuge has: hot shower, bar, food and beverage service, commissary, beds, first aid, weather forecast, radio transmitters, phone, fireplace, library, wifi network, open kitchen, blankets and wastewater treatment. Last season the refuge provided relief materials to support rescue teams increasingly used more often in the area. In the vicinity, although there is a helicopter landing area.

The current guardians, Moslero Pilar and Pedro Zamora, work hard to provide a professional service to the mountaineering and outdoor community.

Access

Location in a firebreak

Despite being a high mountain refuge, during the summer season access can be made with vehicle ( preferably off-road).  At the southern part of Jerez de Marsquesado take the turn right (signposted), after passing by the Centro de Defensa Forestal de Los Moralillos, take a dirt road (Camino Forestal del Marquesado) which rises to the left. After about 9 km of forest track, turn right and approach the final stretch of the firebreak. The last section is in a  poor condition. After 2.7 kms you arrive at the hut. In winter, this last part of the firebreak usually accumulates snow and maybe impossible even with chains.

For the approach on foot, take the path of PR-A-31. This path is well signposted, heads south west and takes us to the refuge in about 6 km and with 650 meters of ascent. With normal or medium rucksack loads this may take between 2 and 2.5 hours to cover the route.

Activities and Possibilities

The Refugio Postero Alto offers a variety of possibilities for mountain activities. The climb to Jerez to Picon (3,088 m.), the easternmost of the 3000m mountains of the Sierra Nevada is a classic tour climbs. The hut also starts the classic “Los Tres Miles Ruta Integral“, a 4 or 5 day crossing of the whole Sierra Nevada range through to Lanjaron in the south west. It typically takes between 3 and 4 hours for the ascent and requires adequate physical preparation. In the winter is essential to use crampons and ice axe.

Another trip of interest from this location is the traverse over the Puerto de Trevelez to the high village of Trevélez in the high Alpujarra.

The snow and ice of the Barranco del Alhori

To the west of the Loma de Enmedio, is the Barranco del Alhorí. This is home to an ancient glacial cirque. In the winter becomes a perfect place for the practice and teaching of mountaineering and ice climbing. The Alhorí Cascades are at the head of the ravine at about 2,800 meters. These waterfall form great ice sheets every winter from mid-December to late April, with between 15 and 45 meters. See our review of the ice climbing guidebook ” Sierra Nevada Cascadas de Hielo” by Antonio José Herrera

Hiking and trekking are other activities that have a place around the Postero Alto Refugio, mainly from spring to autumn. The path PR-A-31, previously described access to the refuge. You can continue to return to Jerez completing a circular route that passes through the Cortijo del Hornillo and the recreation area at La Tizná. A full day trip of 6 hours, full of natural and scenic interest.

Section 17 of the well known Sulayr Path (GR-240) has its onset in the Postero Alto Refugio. In this section the trail reaches its highest point at 2400 meters at the headwaters of the Rio Maitena. Section 16 of the said GR: Chorreras-Postero Alto has beautiful views of the villages of the Marquis (La Calahorra, Aldeire, Lanteira). A long section of more than 21 kms.

The possibilities for ski touring and backcountry skiing are equally vast using the refugio as a start point or base, including the Picón de Jerez, Puntal de Juntillas, Cerro Pelado, Puerto y Cerro de Trevélez and Puerto de las Albardas.

The large number of forest tracks in the levels immediately below the refuge provide many options for mountain biking, which is why the refuge is in the vicinity of the Transnevada, a route of 500 kms of Sierra Nevada mountain biking which is signposted as the system of the IMBA (International Mountain Bicycling Association).

Other nearby mountain refuges

A day’s march west, following the path of the Sulayr, you can reach the Refuge Bivouac de Peña Partida. Connection with the Puerta de la Ragua can be done in a very long day 30 kms eastwards along the Sulayr.

For experts you could reach the Refugio del Poqueira in two long days. A high mountain route with great distance and without any signs.

Contact

It is essential to make a reservation in good time before your intended visit.
The phone numbers are (+34) 616 506 083 and (+34) 958 066 110
Email is: refugioposteroalto@hotmail.com and website is at www.refugioposteroalto.es.

Also check the Sierra Nevada Weather sources before coming out here especially in the winter months.

The Postero Alto El Refugio is affiliated with other national federations and has reciprocal rights for other alpine countries that offers a discount on accommodation and food.

Thanks for Nevasport for the original source in spanish

Background

The Sierra Nevada as seen from the beaches of the Costa Tropical

On two occasions I had driven from Salobreña on the coast to Trevélez at 1,500m in the hope of summiting Mulhacén in a one day trip. Both times I reached around 3,200m when I started to feel dizzy, had a racing pulse and a banging headache. My body was telling me I had ascended too quickly from sea level and so I turned back.

It seemed logical that if I started at sea level and walked all the way to the summit, my body would acclimatize slowly and so the idea of the Sea2Sky walk came about. I discussed it with a friend who said he would be interested in joining me and I set about planning the most direct route. This would take us up and over the coastal range of hills (La Contraviesa), through the eastern end of La Tahá, along part of the GR7 long distance path to Trevélez, up to the Siete Lagunas at 3,000m and then an early morning ascent of Mulhacén. We decided that weather-wise, early June would be a good time as the last of the winter snow would have disappeared and it wouldn’t be too hot during the day.

Day 1 – Castillo de Baños to Torvizcón (24kms and 1,273m of ascent)

We were dropped off at 9.00am on the beach at Castillo de Baños. We picked up a couple of pebbles and sea shells (which we would leave on the summit of Mulhacén) and we started up the GR6204 to Polopos. We knew the whole of the first day would be on tarmac roads so we wore lightweight shoes rather than boots but even so, with the temperature reaching the low thirties, we were glad of the rest while we ate our sandwiches at Venta del Chaparro.  As we started the 8km descent to our overnight stop in Torvizcón, we caught a glimpse of our objective rising above its neighbouring peaks of the Sierra Nevada.

Day 2 – Torvizcón to Trevélez (26kms and 1,246m of ascent)

Back on the tarmac again, we passed Almegijar before turning off the road and a welcome descent on a good footpath down to the Rio Trevélez in La Tahá. This area was occupied and cultivated by the Arabs because of its abundant natural spring water and fertile soil and is an excellent walking area in its own right. We made a short diversion from our route for tea and home-made cake at the little cafe-bar in Ferreirola before climbing again to Busquistar for our lunch break.

From Busquistar we took the well-signposted GR7. The route traverses the western flank of the Rio Trevélez valley, passing through oak forests which provided welcome shade from the sun, and fantastic views up the valley towards Trevélez and the mountains beyond. After almost ten hours of walking, we reached Trevélez in the early evening and our billet for the night. Knowing we didn’t have an early start in the morning, we ate well at La Fragua which probably serves the best food in the Alpujarra.

Day 3 – Trevélez to Siete Lagunas (9kms and 1,500m of ascent)

After a relaxing morning sitting on the hotel terrace in the sunshine, we had lunch at La Fragua. When the owner heard we were heading for Mulhacén, he insisted on filling our flask with rioja. Who were we to object? The marked footpath rises steeply out of Trevélez but then eases as it gradually heads north-west giving superb views. We were surprised to have to cross so much snow on the path and the large volume of melt water added a certain frisson to a couple of the river crossings.

After a steady five hours walking, we arrived at the Siete Lagunas and, considering how good the weather was, I was expecting to see dozens of people already there. Amazingly we had the place to ourselves all night….until one of our food containers was spirited away by a fox in the early hours. The sky was perfectly clear and our bivouac in a rock shelter became a natural planetarium with the night sky passing overhead. We counted numerous satellites and spotted the international space station just above the horizon.

Day 4 – Siete Lagunas to Mulhacén summit and descent to Hoya del Portillo (13kms and 481m of ascent)

The clear sky meant we had a cold night but as soon as the sun rose, its warmth melted the ice on our sleeping bags and we breakfasted on what food the fox hadn’t managed to find. We packed our gear and climbed steadily to reach the summit of Mulhacén at 9.00am, exactly seventy two hours after dipping our feet in the Mediterranean. The rioja was consumed, absent friends were toasted and we enjoyed the amazing views for half an hour or so before setting off on the long descent down the south ridge. Four hours walking brought us to the car park at Hoya del Portillo and our transport back down to the coast.

Ian Tupman
June 2009

NOTES

1. Since we did the walk, winter storm damage has washed out some of the small river valleys between Busquistar and Trevélez making them difficult to cross. A recce trip should be undertaken to assess the current state of this part of the route.
2. We carried all of our kit for the four days, including boots for the mountain sections and sleeping bags for the bivouac. Arrangements could be made to collect these at Busquistar or Trevélez to keep weight down, especially if high temperatures are forecast.
3. The tarmac sections on the first two days could be omitted by starting the walk in La Tahá. This should still give sufficient time to acclimatize to the altitude.

Access

Through the town of Lanjaron to Orgiva. Turn left before Orgiva towards Capileira and Trevelez. After 20 mins you will enter a big gorge with 3 white villages high above the end of the valley. These villages are Pampaneira, Bubion and Capileira. Head round and up the gorge following the main road, passing through Pampaneira. Just 5 mins more and just before a petrol station turn left to Capileira.

Keep following the road through Capileira and on up the hillside. 5 mins – you will pass horse riding stables. Immediately after take the right when the road forks. Follow this rough track for 15 mins. Park at the Forestry Station barrier and car park (1hr from Lanjaron).

Mulhacen ascent

Perched precariously on Mulhacen summit point!

2hrs after starting you will arrive at the Mirador de Trevelez (a nice place for a breakfast stop will be found 30m to the right by some rocks overlooking the town of Trevelez). Continuing on the old road for 400m, a faint track leaves the road heading rightwards. This is the main south ridge access track. Follow to the south summit and hence to the main summit of Mulhacen (2.5 to 3hrs from Mirador de Trevelez).

Mulhacen descent

From the summit drop 50m south to a point where 2 adjacent cairns mark the start of the west flank path. Follow the track west. This steepens until the full extent of the west flank is seen below. Great views to the Caldera and Veleta areas. This is an unrelenting descent of 500m in a series of steep zig-zags. But it is quick! You should be down at the old road in 40 minutes.

Turn left (south) on the old road which passes over the “Paso de los Franceses” and eventually nears the Alto de Chorillo and the ascent route. Some 400m before the Alto de Chorrillo bear right down over pathless terrain to meet the road that goes from the Poqueira hut to the Alto de Chorrillo. Then, at the first left hand bend in the track take the traverse path south. Follow this along the mountainside. It passes through a forested area before arriving at the forest break above the Hoya del Portillo.

Follow the firebreak down. It is a bit rough, but no rougher than the Mulhacen slopes tackled previously. After 10 minutes you will see a small cairn on the left (looking down) that signifies a small path that enters the forest. Take this path. It is very faint in places but if you generally head a a descending traverse you are bound to reach the forest road or visitor car parks at the Hoya del Portillo.

And that’s it! A 24km walk up and down Mulhacen without ever having crossed the same tracks twice. It will take you between 7 and 9 hours with nearly 1200m of ascent. The Map and Google Earth Tour below will show you the route to be taken. There are links to altitude profiles and more mapping data.

This was to be his first overnight trip.  My lightweight summer backpack felt strangely heavy, weighed down by the additional items such as dog food, extra water and a various assortment of chains, leads, slings and karabiners, in a vain attempt to control a huskies instincts for freedom.

Khumbu by the Laguna de Caballo

The Verea Corta trail

After leaving the Ventura trailhead above Lanjaron in the Alpujarras we headed uphill and gained the southern crest above the old Ventura hut. We were en route to the Cerro de Caballo and the upper Lanjaron valley. The ridge is broad and gentle and there are many large herds of Cabra Monteses (mountain goats) around here.  Khumbu was strangely well behaved among all these fascinating creatures. I had no doubt a slip on my part and he would have been heading north across Spain chasing them, never to return. Such is the way of the husky!

After the Cerro de Caballo we dropped down to the Laguna de Caballo and along the incredible Verea Corta path that winds it’s way in and out of rock faces across the western flank of the Lanjaron valley.

Swimming in Laguna Cuadrada

We stop at Laguna Cuadrada for a welcome swim and then come to the crux, well for a husky, certainly. A short gully has to be crossed assisted by chains. Simple enough for the 2 legged variety but not for Khumbu. He is a strong willed dog and if he doesn’t want to do something then no amount of pulling, persuasion or tempting will work.

In the end two of us scaled the walls above the chains and organised an elaborate system whereby we could mavouver (pull), Khumbu across safely. As huskies are also not the bravest dogs in the world, this was accompanied by load squeals and cries. It was all over in a few seconds and we continued on our way non the worse for wear.

The way passed many glorious small mountain lakes nestling in deep craggy corries. A perfect way to laze the afternoon. We continued onto the head of the Rio Lanjaron and found a nice bivvy spot by some babbling brooks.

Khumbu on guard duty!

As the sun set and the stars came out, Khumbu delighted in watching the returning mountain ibex descending from the hills. He stayed on guard all throughout the night and kept the foxes at bay. Moon, Saturn, Shooting Stars, the Milky Way and the odd airliner filled the night sky. I tucked myself deeper into my sleeping bag as the temperature dropped to 3 or 4 deg C.

Fantastic mountain scenery, sun, running water and of course, a faithful friend. What more could one ask? Short video below.

Night ascents of Mulhacen, Spain

Sunrise from the summit of Mulhacen

Fantastic colours on the eastern bowl

The Eastern Sierras

The summiteers

Veleta (R) and it's shadow (L) across the Vega de Granada

Veleta

Max and the Cerro de Caballo

The high (2500m) access point at the Hoya de la Mora makes a convenient starting point for this two day trek. Unfortunately one has to spend the first hour passing through the summer debris of the ski resort pistes, but thereafter this is a wonderful high level trek. From the Hoya de la Mora car parks follow the road past the Virgen de las Nieves until a junction just before a chairlift station. Turn right here and proceed for 200m before taking a track off to the left. This leads above the ski restaurants at Borreguiles and onto the Collado de Las Yeguas (1hr).

From the Collado head SE past the Embalse de las Yeguas and enter the enchanting area known as Lagunillas de las Virgen. A series of small lakes provide water and superb scenery. From the last lagunilla follow the gently rising track below the Tajos de la Virgen ridge. The path curves round in a sweep round the bowl. Easy but care should be taken at the end of this traverse path (until well into the summer) as it crosses steep snow or ice. We took crampons for security and were very glad we did so.

Camp by Laguna Cuadrada

After this traverse you rise gently to the Elorrieta refugio, perfectly situated for widespread views of the Sierras (3hrs). Still full of surplus energy we then climbed the Tozal de Cartujo (3152m) via it’s interesting NE ridge and hence onto the superb summit of Tajos Altos (5hrs). The aim was to drop down to Laguna Cuadrada, one of the finest places to camp in the Sierras. A way through the band of intervening crags can be found after dropping some 50m in height south from the summit. At the first leveling out of the ridge look east and you will see a steep but easy scree slope running initially straight down and then curving right. This led to the overnight camp at the delightful Laguna Cuadrada.

Abundant water, sun and relaxing resting places aside the lake. A perfect situation for an overnight camp. BUT….. there are problems with Foxes as we have reported on this site many, many times. They are desperate for food and know what plastic bags and rucksacks mean ie food. We took our own fox deterrent, our dog, Max. The couple camping across the lake from us didn’t have a Max. They were pestered all night long by foxes intent on eating. We slumbered on oblivious, thanks to Max, who they evidently can smell from quite a distance. Read more about the fox attacks…..

Breakfast at the Refugio de Caballo

At first light we packed up and continued our journey. This time on an ingenious path south and some 200m below the ridge crest. Within an hour we had arrived at the Laguna de Caballo. Leaving our gear we summited the 3009m Cerro de Caballo before returning for breakfast (1hr round trip) by the refugio. Here we met my spanish friend Pepe Badaje who had arrived to help us inspect the Refugio de Caballo with a view to restoring the door and window later this summer.

Rather than take the short way south to our waiting car, we dropped down the Lavedero de la Reina, passed left of the peak of Morrón and hence down into the lush green valley of the upper Rio Lanjaron. What a place. Beautiful pools, waterfalls and streams. A Shangri-La! Then it is on down the faint track to the overflow dam and pick up the restored Acequia de Prados Colorados.

It’s a long way out especially as, due to the poor state of the track to the Ventura trailhead, we had arranged for a pickup at the ridge line below Peña Caballera. The hot afternoon sun took it’s toll but we eventually arrived at the truck and 45 minutes later was enjoying a beer at Bar Flower in Lanjarón.

This is an enjoyable two day trek with differing and beautiful scenery. Contact me if you wish more information or you can join us on one of our frequent treks across the Sierra Nevada.

The Rio Lanjaron with Cerro de Caballo behind

Full photo gallery from the trip…………..

Video from Pepe Badaje showing the Rio Lanjaron Valley…………

Valle del Río Lanjarón, S. Nevada, Julio 2011. por pepebadaje

Depending on which map you use Tajos Altos can be difficult to identify. Sometimes it is just a series of high points on the long ridge running from Pico del Cartujo to the Cerro de Caballo. Sometimes it is marked as a particular point, incorrectly in my opinion! The Tajos Altos I know and love is the prominent “mountain” looking mountain (if you understand what I mean?). From the north and south it is a pyramid. A classic mountain shape. The sort kids draw at school.

Tajos Altos east face dropping down to Laguna de Bolanos

So where is it? From the Pico del Cartujo heading south you will pass over two smaller lumps before meeting the rise up to what I call “Tajos Altos”. On the Penebetica map series for the Sierra Nevada, this is shown as point 3104m. This is the summit. Not the series of lower points further south that the map shows as “Tajos Altos”, nor any of the smaller inconsequential lumps going north.

It’s relatively gentle slopes dropping down west from the  summit are marked as Los Panderones. Rather boring terrain in summer, but superb country for ski tourers during the winter, if approaching from Fuente Fria above Niguelas.

It is to the east however where the dramatic beauty of this mountain is seen at it’s best. Steep cliffs drop sharply to ledges containing probably the finest mountain lakes in the Sierra Nevada, namely Laguna Cuadrada and Laguna de Bolanos. Tranquil places to stay for a night in the mountains. There is a steep scree slope running east some 100m south of the summit. This can provide access from the summit ridge to the lakes.

Laguna Cuadrada and an idyllic campsite location

An ingenious path, the Verea Cortada cuts across this ledge on it’s way from the Cerro de Caballo to the Laguna de Lanjarón and the Refugio Elorrieta. In fact, some 200m north of Laguna Cuadrada,  there is a short section of path where use of a cable/chain is required to cross a short rock gully.

Below this narrow ledge the cliffs tumble down to the lush green pastures of the upper Rio Lanjarón valley. A real shangri-La, especially in the fierce heat of summer.

Tajos Altos is a real mountain and deserves to be known as such. I for one will be back in the winter to try out some of the winter possibilities on the east face.

If you wish more information on Tajos Altos, access, trails etc please contact me. We run two day crossings of the Sierra Nevada that stay at Laguna Cuadrada overnight. These run throughout the snow free months, namely June to November inclusive.

The prominent peak of Tajos Altos from the Refugio de Caballo

Bivouac site at Siete Lagunas. Mulhacen behind

Our plan was to be in the mountains for 3 days and walk from the rangers station at Hoya de Portillo above Capileira to Jerez de Marsquesado, a crossing of an area of the Sierra Nevada that Jane and I had not been to before. We took our dog Max as our fox deterrent.

After Richard had dropped us off, we made our way up through the forest and onto the main track towards Mulhacen. Just off the road and the normal path up Mulhacen we came across a new refuge shelter, so we spent a while exploring this shelter before continuing our trip towards our first nights destination at Siete Lagunas.

Whilst continuing up towards the traverse path we were privileged to see three massive Griffon Vultures taking off from the south ridge of Mulhacen. The traverse route to Siete Lagunas is now clearly marked by big cairns and our path all the way to our overnight stop was just about free of snow.

Lakes, waterfalls and Alcazaba.... oh and Max

We arrived at Siete Lagunas to find the river in flood conditions. Anywhere green was wet or had cows eating it, so we made our beds in the bivy site next to the caves and waterfall. The temperature all day was very warm until an hour before sunset when a cold wind blew in.

Max positioned himself so he could defend all sides of our bivy site from foxes. We wrapped Max in a down jacket thinking he would get cold from the wind blowing, but he soon disbursed of it. A little bird known as an Alpine Accentor came and visited us just as dark was falling, it sat on the rock above our bivy site and sang its sweet song. We had no visit from foxes that night and would have slept really well had the wind not been howling through out the night making our biviys russle continuously.

Laguna Hondera at Siete Lagunas. As perfect a campsite as you could wish for?

The next morning we stayed in bed later than we planned. We only had summer walking trousers on and couldnt bring ourselves to get out of our snug sleeping bags into the early morning light with the wind blowing strong until the sun arrived. By 8am we were on the move again.

Big country north of Alcazaba. Puntal de Vacares on right

We bi-passed Alcazaba and eventually arrived at a pass that would give us access to the ridge beyond. The ridge we needed to be on to lead us eventually to Jerez de Marsquesado. We had a steep traverse across loose stones and some patches of soft snow and popped out above the waterfall, perfect. We ascended up to the ridge and viewed what laid ahead of us. The view north is an amazing sight. The valley is enormous and the distance to be covered seems impossible. Alas, that was to be the case for us as my feet were not in good shape. I’d had too many trips before this one and they had not had time to recover. Rather than risk another 2 days of walking, we came to the decision to return to Trevelez!

Snow covered Laguna de Vacares and the ridge north

It was simply stunning up there, the smell from the broom growing on the mountainsides, the beautiful tiny delicate alpine flowers were everywhere, the birds seem to escort us on our way and the mountains still had lots of snow left on them. There was no shortage of water! What a beautiful part of the world I’m lucky enough to live in.

This was the first overnight trip that Max had been on, and he had an absolute ball. Plenty of snow and running water around meant we didnt have to carry spare water for him. He eats very little considering the amount of energy he is using. I would recommend anyone camping in the Sierra Nevada to take a Max dog along with them. He keeps the foxes away, is a great companion and a  joy to have around, even if he does disappear chasing Ibex, knowing full well he will never catch one.

It was a long trip back to Trevelez and my feet were sore and aching from the 1600m descent. We had had a 13 hour day, hadn’t achieved what we had set out to do, but had had a wonderful time in glorious mountain scenery. What could be better?

Read Kiersten Rowlands Blog
Visit the high mountain lakes of the Sierra Nevada in 2 or 3 day treks

In Fred Zinneman’s 1984 film “5 days one Summer”, Sean Connery plays the part of a pre-war climber in the Alps. Driven by a burning desire to conquer peaks (and, it must be said, to pursue his affair with his niece) he pushes onwards and upwards, as it were, regardless of the dangers. We are treated to some superb climbing footage and some toe curling tension before it all goes fairly wrong – for someone at least.

The Tajos de la Virgen ridge

This summer we spent 5 days in the Sierra Nevada, with two days being devoted to a traverse of the range from North to South. This was a guided trek using Spanish Highs as our guides. The route had been chosen to give a balance between physical challenge and overall mountain experience. Part of this experience involved roughing it overnight in a deserted high altitude hospital, with the expectation of some attention from local foxes overnight and the distinct possibility of a glimpse of the Atlas Mountains of North Africa.

The timing of the trip was mid June. We knew we would be trekking over compacted snow and came equipped with crampons and axes, but with the weather set fair we expected a warm trek with no particular problems. It did seem a little strange packing for Malaga airport with bags full of winter gear.

The 2010/11 winter season had brought heavy snows to the Sierra Nevada, including a few late dumps in April and May. As we drove from our base in the lovely town of Lanjaron it became apparent that there was a good deal more snow on the upper reaches than we had expected.

Ice axe braking practice

Starting from Hoya de la Mora (2500m) above the ski resort we set off mid morning at a modest pace, expecting a strenuous but uncomplicated 7 hour trek. There was still some snow around even at this level of 7000 ft but it was not until we had risen by another 1000 ft that we were permanently on snow.

As always the chat was pleasant and light hearted, and the presence of two dogs made the morning all the more entertaining. The intention was that by lunchtime Khumbu the Husky would return with Kiersten, leaving Max as our overnight fox deterrent.

Lunch was followed by some training in ice axe braking techniques, and we gamely pushed on in the warm sun -now all wearing crampons. As we began the long traverse of the North Face under Veleta we could see the slope steepening and becoming convex as it gained ground towards Refugio Elorrieta.

The odd slip and stumble was inevitable for those of us who don’t don crampons every day, and the ice axe technique training gave us the confidence that if we did slip we could arrest ourselves quickly and prevent too much damage being done. However, the footing became more unsure as the slope steepened, and the sight of a distant ski tourer in apparent difficulty nearer the crest started to raise the silent possibility in our minds that things were going to get even more difficult for our group.

The group crossing snows below the ridge

This proved to be the case just a short while later when one of our troop disappeared up to his waist as the snow gave way suddenly. It didn’t blunt his sense of humour, but it caused others to lose a little of their self confidence on the narrow path we were treading. Moments such as these are crucial, because important decisions need to be taken. My personal view is that these decisions are best taken by those with mountain experience and local knowledge. Although many experiences such as this are aimed at taking you out of your comfort zone, the greater part always has to be about personal safety.

Having read the conditions, and no doubt assessed the behaviour of all those in the group, our guide decided that we should not risk the unstable ground ahead, particularly in the heat of the afternoon sun, as it represented too great an avalanche risk. Avalanche risk? In the Sierra Nevada in June? Are you kidding? Well no actually, and this was a conversation we didn’t need to have. We gamely retreated and retraced the route we had taken for the previous three and a half hours.

The marvellous Tajos de la Virgen ridge

There would be no overnight stay under the stars, and no tussle with the local foxes. However, there was some useful training in crampon technique, and the experience gained of how a set of adverse conditions should be assessed, and self preservation maintained. That evening there was also plenty of good conversation among all of us, and a good deal of cold beer, tapas and good wine.

However, we heard only today of two falls very close to the point where we turned around. One of these was serious. It seems our decision was vindicated, although I needed no reassurance of this.

The “no fear” society of today needs to learn that retreat is not necessarily defeat. After all, the mountain will still be there tomorrow – make sure you are too.

We travelled to the Sierra Nevada to meet Spanish Highs. Our party was Mervyn Ham (54), Joe Ham (23), and Nicholas Travers-Wakeford (24). We were pleased to be guided on the mountain by Richard Hartley, and accompanied by Kiersten Rowland, her dogs Max and Khumbu, and Pepe Badaje – surely the happiest man on the mountain.

Max, fox deterrent!

Trevor writes………………..

Spanish foxes – at least in the Sierra Nevada – are not like English foxes. If you are camping out, they will come at night to take your food. They put their heads under the side of your tent and grab anything they can find. If it is not food, it will be discarded nearby.  If it is, you will not see it again.

My small, fox-friendly tent

I spent four nights camping in and near Cerro de Caballo. I received a visit each night, usually three or four visits. I had been forewarned; so I put almost everything into my pack. I closed the flap securely and attached a cord to the pack and the few items left out – my boots, blow-up pillow and a trekking pole – and tied the other end of the cord to the zip of my sleeping bag. When the fox tried to take anything, I would wake up and chase him off with the trekking pole. Often we had a tug of war over the pack.

On one occasion, I tried to be too clever. I left my pen knife out (open) so I could defend myself if the fox turned nasty. Then I thought he might run away with it. So I took the cord attached to the knife and looped it round the other trekking pole, which served as a tent pole. The fox came, saw the knife and ran off with it: he pulled the pole down, the tent collapsed and the rain came in. Not one of my best moves.

Below Cerro del Caballo

In the end, however, I came out on top. Although he ripped the outside pocket of my worn and frayed light-weight pack, I never lost anything. In fact, I became quite fond of him. On my last night, he did not come until about 5 a.m. and I began to worry that something might have happened to him.

Unless you stay in a fox-proof hut, you have to accept fox raids as a natural part of the Sierra Nevada. You must learn to live with them. Don’t try zipping up your tent to keep him out. He will just claw his way in and leave your tent in tatters. Let him come in and see there is nothing to take. Tie your pack to yourself so he can’t pull it out of the tent. Accept that you will be woken up and don’t let it worry you. He is unlikely to hurt you. Be grateful you are not camping in bear country. If you are careful, you will not lose anything of value.

Trevor Hartley – June 2011