Alcazaba and Mulhacen N faces

From Granada, head east on good roads and pass by the town of Pinos Genil and on through the town of Guejar Sierra. On the eastern outskirts of Guejar Sierra take a left turn signposted “Camping Cortijo Balderas”. This road is concreted but narrow. After 2km take a rough road right (marked with a No Entry sign!). Take this and drop down to a crossing of the Rio Maitena. Follow this concreted road as it winds upwards.

After another 2km the concrete road ends and a dirt track ensues. This is a bit rough in places and a 4WD is preferable. The road zig zags across the mountainside, eventually reaching the crest of the Loma de la Cuna de los Cuartos (1949m, 40 mins from Guejar Sierra). As you reach the crest an incredible vista meets the eye. The whole of the Sierra Nevada from Veleta through to Picon de Jerez lies before you. Not only that, but this side is steep which make for dramatic views of the north faces, alpine in scale.

There is a small Fire Lookout here and this makes a good place to take photographs. You can then follow the track east, close to the crest of the Loma. After another 3km a chain across the track prevents further progress. There are superlative views into the head of the Rios’ Vadillo and Genil. The Vereda de Estrella lies far beneath.

Panorama from Alcazaba to Veleta

If you are feeling energetic you can walk from here to the Refugio Peña Partido a further 5km just past the minor peak of Papeles (2424m). The hut makes a useful base for exploratory trips on the remote northern mountains such as Puntal de los Cuartos, Atalaya or Pico del Cuervo.

Today though we had gone solely for the views and to see the best views of the Sierras in winter mode. On the way back to the car we were joined by a Golden Eagle and a Griffon Vulture soaring on the thermals. This trip is a great for a half day excursion.

Lots more photos below……………

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Being more of a mountaineer and ski tourer than outright rock climber I have always been fascinated by simple lightweight and effective mountain equipment. An old Troll Alpine harness stood me in good stead for many years (from 1987 to 2004 in fact). This was followed by the, not quite so great, Black Diamond Alpine Bod. Now a new hero has emerged.

Black-Diamond-Couloir-Harness

Weighing in at only 230gm this harness is made from fast drying nylon webbing, and has the essential quick release leg-loops, meaning the harness is easy to take on and off even with ski’s or crampons on. It has 2 gear loops and 4 ice clipper slots with a double back waist buckle. It comes in an incredibly small stuff sack that would fit in a  jacket pocket. It is available only in the rather nice, Burnt Orange colour.

I did a test in front of our three very bored dogs (see video below), in which it took me just 25 seconds to put the harness on. Easy enough?

It is available in 3 sizes (see below). As this harness is almost certainly to be used for ski touring or basic mountaineering and glacier travel, I would always go a size above to ensure a fit over winter clothing. Of course the quick release leg-loops mean answering the call of nature is easier too!

For glacier travel, I would also suggest that with a heavy pack you should have a chest harness or a sling arrangement to keep the center of gravity slightly higher thus reducing the chances of a roll- over should one fall in a crevasse.

Any cons? Well for me the only problem would be the double back waist buckle, which will be difficult to double back with cold gloved hands. Admittedly this is a problem I find with all harnesses though, even though I do understand the security issues involved.

I am taking this harness with me on our adventures onto the Patagonian icecap in November. I am sure it will become a fixed accessory in my rucksack during the coming winter in the Sierra Nevada.

Recommended retail outlet is Deportes Nomadas of Durcal. Retails for about €50.

Sizes:

1. GR7 Trevelez to Busquistar
2. Pampaneira to Pitres via Bubion
3. GR7 Soportujar to Lanjarón via Cañar
4. Walk round the wetlands of Padul
5. La Taha, Mecina Fondales to Busquistar
6. Mulhacén (3482m) from the Mirador de Trevelez
7. Round of the Poqueira Gorge

Walking in the Alpujarras

This was to be his first overnight trip.  My lightweight summer backpack felt strangely heavy, weighed down by the additional items such as dog food, extra water and a various assortment of chains, leads, slings and karabiners, in a vain attempt to control a huskies instincts for freedom.

Khumbu by the Laguna de Caballo

The Verea Corta trail

After leaving the Ventura trailhead above Lanjaron in the Alpujarras we headed uphill and gained the southern crest above the old Ventura hut. We were en route to the Cerro de Caballo and the upper Lanjaron valley. The ridge is broad and gentle and there are many large herds of Cabra Monteses (mountain goats) around here.  Khumbu was strangely well behaved among all these fascinating creatures. I had no doubt a slip on my part and he would have been heading north across Spain chasing them, never to return. Such is the way of the husky!

After the Cerro de Caballo we dropped down to the Laguna de Caballo and along the incredible Verea Corta path that winds it’s way in and out of rock faces across the western flank of the Lanjaron valley.

Swimming in Laguna Cuadrada

We stop at Laguna Cuadrada for a welcome swim and then come to the crux, well for a husky, certainly. A short gully has to be crossed assisted by chains. Simple enough for the 2 legged variety but not for Khumbu. He is a strong willed dog and if he doesn’t want to do something then no amount of pulling, persuasion or tempting will work.

In the end two of us scaled the walls above the chains and organised an elaborate system whereby we could mavouver (pull), Khumbu across safely. As huskies are also not the bravest dogs in the world, this was accompanied by load squeals and cries. It was all over in a few seconds and we continued on our way non the worse for wear.

The way passed many glorious small mountain lakes nestling in deep craggy corries. A perfect way to laze the afternoon. We continued onto the head of the Rio Lanjaron and found a nice bivvy spot by some babbling brooks.

Khumbu on guard duty!

As the sun set and the stars came out, Khumbu delighted in watching the returning mountain ibex descending from the hills. He stayed on guard all throughout the night and kept the foxes at bay. Moon, Saturn, Shooting Stars, the Milky Way and the odd airliner filled the night sky. I tucked myself deeper into my sleeping bag as the temperature dropped to 3 or 4 deg C.

Fantastic mountain scenery, sun, running water and of course, a faithful friend. What more could one ask? Short video below.

Night ascents of Mulhacen, Spain

Sunrise from the summit of Mulhacen

Fantastic colours on the eastern bowl

The Eastern Sierras

The summiteers

Veleta (R) and it's shadow (L) across the Vega de Granada

Veleta

Upper Rio Lanjaron in mid summer

The waters gather at high lakes at the head of the Rio Lanjaron, just below the Elorietta refugio. The Laguna de Lanjaron, Laguna Cuadrada and countless smaller lakes are buried under winter snows for over 6 months of the year and this provides the key. Much water is filtered through the mountainsides on its long journey downhill before finally appearing as natural springs.

The Rio gathers water from the slopes of  Tajos de los Machos and the long western mountain limb culminating in the Cerro de Caballo. At times, especially in early winter, there is a raging torrent that threatens bridges and fields. In late summer the Rio can become a simple trickle of water.

Local man, Pepe Badaje, has installed the webcam at his cortijo alongside the river. Visit his website.

Watch live video from pepebadaje on Justin.tv

Late summer at the Laguna Cuadrada

The upper Rio Lanjaron in May 2010!

See the video on Youtube
David Spreadborough mulhacen trip report
Spready on Twitter

Fujifilm Finepix HS10 "Bridge" camera

When you head off into the mountains, it’s impossible to resist the temptation to capture the amazing scenery, a tricky pitch, or just the extreme weather or snow conditions. A lot of people are happy just taking little pocket cameras but for enthusiastic photographers like me who want to take home some great photos, these compact cameras just don’t provide the image quality or zoom versatility to capture everything on offer.

The obvious alternative for photographers would be a normal digital SLR camera with interchangeable lenses. They provide the best quality image and if you carry enough different lenses they also offer near unlimited zoom range. However, I’ve had a digital SLR camera with two lenses since moving to Spain and haven’t taken it into the mountains with me once. The problem is they are too bulky and if you are carrying spare lenses they create a massive extra weight to carry in an environment where you need to be travelling light and fast.

To combat this problem, and to reignite my enthusiasm for photography, I recently bought myself a “Bridge” (or super-zoom) camera. Basically they bridge the gap between compact cameras and SLRs. They look like an SLR and have all the same features and options but at a fraction of the weight, bulk and price. They don’t have interchangeable lenses but they are called super-zoom cameras because the lens they come with provides a zoom range that could only be achieved by carrying 3 or 4 extra lenses with a standard SLR.

The image sensor is not quite as a good quality as an SLR but unless you intend to send your photos to National Geographic, who cares? They provide much better images than compact cameras and have optical zoom rather than digital zoom which comes with compacts which can degrade the quality of the image further.

So if you are a professional photographer hoping to take a million dollar photo in the mountains, by all means take a huge SLR with 20 different lenses, just be prepared to hire a few sherpas to carry it for you. If, however, you are just a keen photographer and mountaineer hoping to take some good quality photos, save the weight……and your money, and get a “Bridge” camera. My new camera is a Fujifilm Finepix HS10 (see image below).

James Jackson is an apprentice mountain guide with Spanish Highs.

The upper Rio Lanjaron in late spring

The Rio Lanjarón begins its journey in a small lake located at over three thousand metres, running in its early stages by a beautiful glacial valley punctuated by numerous lagoons hanging on the right bank. As it descends and intensifies its course, closed in by high walled ravines. The volume is swelled by various streams and rivers bleeding from numerous other channels.

The seasonal rhythm of the water, surface runoff and the different types of upwelling driven by the nature of the rocks leaves lake deposits that fill the old glacial cirques and the hollows of the land. All part of a regulatory system that naturally filters and manages water retained in the snow. This water system works with amazing results, given that we are in the southernmost part of Europe with a Mediterranean climate and low rainfall for much of the year.

Of course the town of Lanjarón in the Alpujarras benefits greatly as the river becomes it’s life-blood. The waters are pure and thus it’s fame as a spa resort is therefore assured.

Below a video from Pepe Badaje about the river and its birthplace.

Lanjaron makes a good destination for Bargain Holidays, especially in summer when the town is alive and buzzing. You can take a car to a high start point and enjoy the waters of the incredible Rio Lanjaron for yourself.