Temperatures – nothing too different on the maximums and minimums, but interesting to note that 2011 was far more extreme overall than in  2010. The number of times the temperatures exceeded 30 or were less than 10 were much more than in 2010.

Rainfall much higher in 2010, but that was an exceptional year.

View all the Alpujarras climate data since 2006

Temperatures

• Max High 36.3 (2010 38.2)
• Min Low 0.3 (2010 0.0)
• Average temp 15.8 (2010 16.0)
• Average max 27.6 (2010 26.7)
• Average min 7.1 (2010 7.1)
• Max temperature over 30 degrees on – 48 days (2010 – 26 days)
• Min temperature under 10 degrees on – 154 days (2010 – 114 days)

Rainfall

• Total precipitation 442mm (2010 720mm)
• Days when precipitation over 2.5mm – 37 days (2010 – 42 days)

Wind

• Maximum gust 61 km/hr (2010 61 km/hr)
• Average maximum gust throughout the year 22.6 km/hr (2010 – 26.3 km/hr)
• Average speed 2.4 km/hr (2010 3.2 km/hr)
• Average wind direction – 265

Click to load Climate Data 2011 in larger window

Magical! The refuge and lake in winter

The refuge is in a superb situation below the 3009m summit of the Cerro de Caballo, above the Alpujarras town of Lanjarón, and adjacent to the lake of the same name. In the winter it is snowed up wonderland, except for the state of the refuge that is!

The refuge has steadily been getting worse. In March we saw a photo of the refuge full of snow and litter (see below). With the passage of time and the poor, despicable treatment by those who call themselves “mountain lovers”, it was in a poor state. The door was torn off and the window had gone to be replaced by stones and plastic bags. The floor was uneven and worst of all, there was garbage all over the place. No excuses for leaving litter I’m afraid! It was time for some action.

The bad old days in summer and winter

We set up a Facebook Page “Iniciativa para la restauración de los refugios del Caballo y del Elorrieta” to publicise the problem. Pepe Badaje and myself made an initial visit at the beginning of August 2011. I know nothing about construction but Pepe is indeed a master! We needed to clean, paint, and put on a door and window. The problem though, would the transportation of materials from 2150m at the Ventura trailhead to the refuge at 2850m.

A mule was the obvious answer, but being of simple means the cost of hiring a mule would be too much. Client, Andy Bissaker then came to the rescue with an unbelievable offer of paying for the mule! In these difficult times for all, the assistance from unexpected sources is indeed inspiring.

Travels with Pepito the mule

At 6am on August 20th 2011, together with Pepe Badaje, Jesús Labajo Yuste of Campo Base and muleteers, Toni and Jonni (not forgetting Pepito the mule!), we met at the Ventura trailhead above Lanjarón. We accessed the Rio Lanjarón via the Acequia Alta above the Ventura refugio. Getting a mule along parts of the old acequia was trying at times and took a long time. Once in the river valley we climbed up to the refuge and arrived there by 1pm.

Then it was down to work. Jesus and myself cleaned litter and stones from the building whilst Pepe started on the window. By the end of the day the hut was clean, the ancient wooden replacement window in place and the door frame cemented in. All the accumulated litter was taken back down to Lanjarón which we reached at 8pm, after a 5am start.

Window and concrete mixing

Next day was another incredible 7 hour round trip commute to work! Toni, Jonni and Pepito had slept at the Ventura trailhead. They still had another carry of paint and cement to perform. This time we accessed the refuge via the southern ridge. Some pathless terrain, but better for Pepito than the acequia of the previous day. Kiersten Rowland came along to assist with the painting.

The interior painting went well and the window was completed, but there were some problems with the door frame. It moved! Pepe used his ingenuity and managed to strengthen the frame using counter pressure. Not perfect, but the best we could do given the circumstances. We retired back downhill for the night.

The infamous door and the outside step

We had a day of rest before we ventured uphill again on the Thursday. The most important task was to ensure the door was ok. In addition we had to clear the front and back of the refuge of stones and create a doorstep. We left cleaning materials in the refuge and a spade hung up outside to clear the snow away. When we departed the refuge looked great. But will the door last? Personally, I think not. I think a return trip just may be required. Vamos a Ver!

Finishing touches to the restoration

On our descent down the mountain we were full of contentment. Fulfilled and happy in the knowledge that we had helped to restore an historic and important mountain refuge. It seemed that we were rewarded when we had a fly past from four magnificent Griffon Vultures. Even the Cabra Monteses had no fear of us. Magical times that will live long in the memory. Thank you amigos.

Special thanks to Pepe, Kiersten, Jesús, Toni, Jonni and Andy (also Pepito our wonderful mule). Bonded forever in a common cause.

Also thanks to the Parque Nacional for overlooking our indiscretions and lack of respect for permissions. And for seeing sense!

The plaque we left hanging up says it all…..

“With the humble effort of a mule, 2 drovers and 4 mountaineers. If all who use the refuge care and respect it. Keep it, the lake and the environment clean. Take our garbage and leave the window and door locked when we leave. We will continue to have shelter for many years to come”

Says it all really!

Links to more photos of the work. Please continue to support this initiative which we believe will not and should not stop here! The Parque Nacional have asked us to help with the Refugio del Elorrieta which is also in a bad condition. All help is needed as this would be a much bigger project.

Shovel, exterior and plaque

Upper Rio Lanjaron in mid summer

The waters gather at high lakes at the head of the Rio Lanjaron, just below the Elorietta refugio. The Laguna de Lanjaron, Laguna Cuadrada and countless smaller lakes are buried under winter snows for over 6 months of the year and this provides the key. Much water is filtered through the mountainsides on its long journey downhill before finally appearing as natural springs.

The Rio gathers water from the slopes of  Tajos de los Machos and the long western mountain limb culminating in the Cerro de Caballo. At times, especially in early winter, there is a raging torrent that threatens bridges and fields. In late summer the Rio can become a simple trickle of water.

Local man, Pepe Badaje, has installed the webcam at his cortijo alongside the river. Visit his website.

Watch live video from pepebadaje on Justin.tv

Late summer at the Laguna Cuadrada

The upper Rio Lanjaron in May 2010!

Thanks to Pepe Badaje for digging out this information and providing the video with old photos. Read his report in spanish on his blog.

The distant Cerro de Caballo from Elorrieta June 2010

He intended to go from Granada to the peak of Veleta and then descend to Lanjaron, but could not find any guide in the city who was willing to accompany him on foot. So he decided to travel by stagecoach from Granada and changed plans to start from Lanjarón.

In Lanjarón, he found Juan Estévez, a young, strong-willed, strong, active, fearless local man, willing to walk all the hours that were needed. His lack of knowledge of the Sierra Nevada made up by enthusiasm and effort.

From Lanjarón they climbed the Cerro de Caballo, a climb that served to convince the Englishman that unfortunately he had underestimated the Sierra Nevada. I might point out that one and a half centuries later this is still being done on a regular basis! They dropped down to the Laguna de Caballo, whose slopes still had a respectable amount of snow and returned to Lanjaron.

The second climb was performed from Capileira, where they were joined by another local guide. From here they made the very long climb to Mulhacén. Ormsby was  quite impressed and said…. “the Pyrenees or the Alps have nothing to be compared properly with it.”

In his third outing, he started out again from Lanjaron, camped high overnight near the Cerro del Caballo and restarted before dawn taking the track leading to what is now the Elorietta refugio.

At one point along the way, probably the ridge of Tajos de la Virgin, he had to overcome a large snow slope, “so hard that nothing could pierce the surface”. They reached the Col de Capileira/Cariguela, the highest pass in Europe used for genuine commercial purposes. The ascent of Veleta was made from here. Once on the summit of Veleta they said their goodbyes, Ormsby moving north to Granada and the “cañonero”, Juan Estévez, returning to Lanjarón.

Viajeros ilustres: Primer viaje de Ormsby a… by pepebadaje

Here is the report by John Ormsby on Lanjarón and Juan Estévez, the guide found in the village and who was his companion during his stay in Sierra Nevada:

“Lanjarón is one of the most beautiful places I have been fortunate to see on my walks through the deserts of this world …

The town is a long street of white houses with low roofs, and like all people of Las Alpujarras , is quite Moorish in appearance. It perches on the south side of a steep mountain, with a deep ravine in front, and the narrow ledge on which it sits is a maze of pomegranate and peach, fig and orange trees. But we are not here to talk about oranges, except perhaps to note that Lanjarón oranges are famous throughout the south of Spain, and are a wonderful provision of nature that comforts the mountaineer in a hot and dry land.

Among the attractions of the area which are relevant here – a rarity in Spain, and doubly rare in this area, a clean and comfortable small inn and a very efficient guide. The driver of the coach, who was interested enough in my way of proceeding,  said he thought he knew a young man who would serve my purposes, and the young man, as later proved, responded reasonably well. In the event that any member of the Alpine Club was once in Lanjarón, his name is Juan Estévez. He is a very willful young man, with pretty good humor, strong, active, ready to walk all the hours it takes, not afraid of anything and is rather fond of outdoor camping.

He now knows the mountains very well, and also the way to reach most major sights, but I can not say much about what he knew before we started. The main flaw I find in him was his habit of shouting in order to become better understood. No European language easier to understand than the Spanish after a little practice, where the Castilian standard, a thoughtful language in which to pronounce each vowel and consonant as written. But the Andalusian is a corruption of the Castilian, not pronouncing certain letters, slurring other and speaking very fast.

The dialect of the Alpujarras, is a corruption of the Andalusian. However, I understood better than I had expected. On the afternoon of our third day he told the innkeeper that he could understand what I was saying. If we started that night, he said, could reach the Veleta and return the next afternoon, and well, a little after midnight we began to ascend in a straight line behind Lanjarón “

The following summer, 1867, the Sierra Nevada hosted another English expedition made by Charles Packe, a Mr. Byles, and Henri Passet guide in that journey Lanjarón located in Juan Estévez thanks in the main to the story’s first trip Ormsby.

The upper Rio Lanjaron in late spring

The Rio Lanjarón begins its journey in a small lake located at over three thousand metres, running in its early stages by a beautiful glacial valley punctuated by numerous lagoons hanging on the right bank. As it descends and intensifies its course, closed in by high walled ravines. The volume is swelled by various streams and rivers bleeding from numerous other channels.

The seasonal rhythm of the water, surface runoff and the different types of upwelling driven by the nature of the rocks leaves lake deposits that fill the old glacial cirques and the hollows of the land. All part of a regulatory system that naturally filters and manages water retained in the snow. This water system works with amazing results, given that we are in the southernmost part of Europe with a Mediterranean climate and low rainfall for much of the year.

Of course the town of Lanjarón in the Alpujarras benefits greatly as the river becomes it’s life-blood. The waters are pure and thus it’s fame as a spa resort is therefore assured.

Below a video from Pepe Badaje about the river and its birthplace.

Lanjaron makes a good destination for Bargain Holidays, especially in summer when the town is alive and buzzing. You can take a car to a high start point and enjoy the waters of the incredible Rio Lanjaron for yourself.

The Caballo

Within 15 minutes of leaving the car we had arrived at the ruined Ventura Hut. A short break there and we continued upwards traversing slopes of shrub, pine and finally scree. A welcoming stream flowed from a side valley which provided much needed relief for our dogs.

We skirted the SE side of the Cerro at 2800m and headed northwards to arrive at the delightful Laguna de Caballo, nestling at the base of the Cerro’s north face. It had taken just 3 hours to get here and involved 650m ascent. The lake provided a plesant resting place for both humans and dogs!

From there we headed W up a short slope towards the Col de Caballo and thence on to the summit. Great views towards the main mass of the Sierra Nevada but with afternoon clouds threatening we quickly descended southwards along the vague ridge accompanied by large herds of mountain goats (cabra montes). A short steep grassy descent led us back to our start point near the Ventura Hut.

Our journey back to the beers and fleshpots of Lanjaron gave us close up views of many Kestrels gathering above the forest tracks and possibly our first ever view glimpse of the rare Bonellis Eagle.

This is a great day trip. We never saw another car or person during our 6hr walk. The views are extensive and the high start point makes this a good summer excursion. Recommended!

The fire raging in the Sierra Nevada

The visit to the area, located at ‘Peña Caballero-Ventura’ on the hillsides above the town, has allowed Trillo and Miro to get to see at first hand the reforestation efforts that have been made in recent years and the various species planted.

Through its corporate responsibility project ‘Compromiso con los Parques’, Lanjarón undertook in 2009 to carry out reforestation activities over an area of 100 hectares for three years – until 2011. Initially 100,000 trees of species such as oak, oak, maple, cherry, willow, hawthorn have been planted.

Recently, this has been expanded with commitment to more trees by signing a new agreement with the Ministry of Environment, which will allow by the end of 2011 105 hectares of afforestation in the municipality of Lanjarón.

‘Monte Siglo XXI’ is a project of long-term restoration in addition to emergency work performed by the Ministry of Environment in the areas affected by fire in 2005. The aim is to ensure adequate forest cover in the area in which environmental regeneration has been inadequate and the Board has granted a budget of five million euros to this initiative, so as to enhance biodiversity and landscape as well as contribute to sustainable development of rural communities in the Sierra Nevada environment.

The area above Lanjaron in the rio Lanjaron valley

Recent trips along the GR7 in the Alpujarras have brought regular sightings of Kestrels, Lesser Kestrels, Short Toed Eagles and Booted Eagles. On the hillsides of above the spa town of Lanjaron on the approaches to Tello, Tajos Deposito or Puente Palo we have caught glimpses of our resident Golden Eagle and also seen the rare Bonelli’s Eagle on many occasions.

Our cortijo above the town has received visits from Sparrowhawks, Peregrine Falcons and, last week, even a fly past by circling Honey Buzzards. The massive form of the Griffon Vulture is back too! If as last year, when the snows of the upper Rio Lanjaron melt, we are left with the carcasses of cows and cabra monteses then expect a summer full of these magnificent “prehistoric” birds, around the Cerro de Caballo and the higher Sierra Nevada.

All the excellent photos below have been shot by Kiersten Rowland of Birdwatch Alpujarras.

Griffon Vulture underside

Booted Eagle underside Lanjaron

Short Toed Eagle

Golden Eagle Alpujarras