Ian continues…………..

“Short video of a trip with my friend Rob on 23 and 24 January 2012. We walked up to the Poquiera refuge along the acequia alta,
spent the night there and then ascended to Mulhacen via the south ridge the next morning. We launched our paragliders just below the summit at around 13.30.”

“I landed on the meadows just to the south west of Trevelez whilst Rob flew an incredible 22 km to land on the gravel river bed below Tablones in the Orgiva valley.”

Rob over Portugos village

The Poqueira Refuge was opened in March 1997  and is located at an altitude of 2,500 meters on the southern slopes of Sierra Nevada.

The Poqueira hut

Apart from information about booking and reserving, prices and general information the hut provides a weekly update on access and mountain conditions. Very useful information!

The Poqueira hut is also installing 2 webcams that will become very important in seeing likely mountain conditions. A massive improvement to the area.

Here is the latest report on 8th December 2011

Today, Thursday December 8, 2011, from the Refugio Poqueira, we send a weekly report on the status of paths, environment and upcoming summits area. 

Accesses the Power Station and the Acequia Alta Cebadilla (for Capileira) are clear of snow and tread only the last minutes before the hut, and in some other shade. 

Access the Hoya del Portillo is only recommended by skis: Puerto Molina and from there we will approach across the crest to the Alto del Chorrillo, turn 90 degrees towards the Veleta and then drop to the Refuge, (attention windy days on this route). 

On the River Mulhacén you will find snow from the 2700-2800m, great for crampons in the morning but in the afternoon with the heat you will sink 10-15cm. The mountain area is fine for walking with crampons and ice ax, as well as access by Veleta via the Paso Carihuela, although the track has a clean edge snow mostly to the Caldera, remain essential crampons and ice axes, they have to go through high risk areas. 

The bivouacs of the Caldera and Villavientos are in good condition and clean.

Background

The Sierra Nevada as seen from the beaches of the Costa Tropical

On two occasions I had driven from Salobreña on the coast to Trevélez at 1,500m in the hope of summiting Mulhacén in a one day trip. Both times I reached around 3,200m when I started to feel dizzy, had a racing pulse and a banging headache. My body was telling me I had ascended too quickly from sea level and so I turned back.

It seemed logical that if I started at sea level and walked all the way to the summit, my body would acclimatize slowly and so the idea of the Sea2Sky walk came about. I discussed it with a friend who said he would be interested in joining me and I set about planning the most direct route. This would take us up and over the coastal range of hills (La Contraviesa), through the eastern end of La Tahá, along part of the GR7 long distance path to Trevélez, up to the Siete Lagunas at 3,000m and then an early morning ascent of Mulhacén. We decided that weather-wise, early June would be a good time as the last of the winter snow would have disappeared and it wouldn’t be too hot during the day.

Day 1 – Castillo de Baños to Torvizcón (24kms and 1,273m of ascent)

We were dropped off at 9.00am on the beach at Castillo de Baños. We picked up a couple of pebbles and sea shells (which we would leave on the summit of Mulhacén) and we started up the GR6204 to Polopos. We knew the whole of the first day would be on tarmac roads so we wore lightweight shoes rather than boots but even so, with the temperature reaching the low thirties, we were glad of the rest while we ate our sandwiches at Venta del Chaparro.  As we started the 8km descent to our overnight stop in Torvizcón, we caught a glimpse of our objective rising above its neighbouring peaks of the Sierra Nevada.

Day 2 – Torvizcón to Trevélez (26kms and 1,246m of ascent)

Back on the tarmac again, we passed Almegijar before turning off the road and a welcome descent on a good footpath down to the Rio Trevélez in La Tahá. This area was occupied and cultivated by the Arabs because of its abundant natural spring water and fertile soil and is an excellent walking area in its own right. We made a short diversion from our route for tea and home-made cake at the little cafe-bar in Ferreirola before climbing again to Busquistar for our lunch break.

From Busquistar we took the well-signposted GR7. The route traverses the western flank of the Rio Trevélez valley, passing through oak forests which provided welcome shade from the sun, and fantastic views up the valley towards Trevélez and the mountains beyond. After almost ten hours of walking, we reached Trevélez in the early evening and our billet for the night. Knowing we didn’t have an early start in the morning, we ate well at La Fragua which probably serves the best food in the Alpujarra.

Day 3 – Trevélez to Siete Lagunas (9kms and 1,500m of ascent)

After a relaxing morning sitting on the hotel terrace in the sunshine, we had lunch at La Fragua. When the owner heard we were heading for Mulhacén, he insisted on filling our flask with rioja. Who were we to object? The marked footpath rises steeply out of Trevélez but then eases as it gradually heads north-west giving superb views. We were surprised to have to cross so much snow on the path and the large volume of melt water added a certain frisson to a couple of the river crossings.

After a steady five hours walking, we arrived at the Siete Lagunas and, considering how good the weather was, I was expecting to see dozens of people already there. Amazingly we had the place to ourselves all night….until one of our food containers was spirited away by a fox in the early hours. The sky was perfectly clear and our bivouac in a rock shelter became a natural planetarium with the night sky passing overhead. We counted numerous satellites and spotted the international space station just above the horizon.

Day 4 – Siete Lagunas to Mulhacén summit and descent to Hoya del Portillo (13kms and 481m of ascent)

The clear sky meant we had a cold night but as soon as the sun rose, its warmth melted the ice on our sleeping bags and we breakfasted on what food the fox hadn’t managed to find. We packed our gear and climbed steadily to reach the summit of Mulhacén at 9.00am, exactly seventy two hours after dipping our feet in the Mediterranean. The rioja was consumed, absent friends were toasted and we enjoyed the amazing views for half an hour or so before setting off on the long descent down the south ridge. Four hours walking brought us to the car park at Hoya del Portillo and our transport back down to the coast.

Ian Tupman
June 2009

NOTES

1. Since we did the walk, winter storm damage has washed out some of the small river valleys between Busquistar and Trevélez making them difficult to cross. A recce trip should be undertaken to assess the current state of this part of the route.
2. We carried all of our kit for the four days, including boots for the mountain sections and sleeping bags for the bivouac. Arrangements could be made to collect these at Busquistar or Trevélez to keep weight down, especially if high temperatures are forecast.
3. The tarmac sections on the first two days could be omitted by starting the walk in La Tahá. This should still give sufficient time to acclimatize to the altitude.

Access

Through the town of Lanjaron to Orgiva. Turn left before Orgiva towards Capileira and Trevelez. After 20 mins you will enter a big gorge with 3 white villages high above the end of the valley. These villages are Pampaneira, Bubion and Capileira. Head round and up the gorge following the main road, passing through Pampaneira. Just 5 mins more and just before a petrol station turn left to Capileira.

Keep following the road through Capileira and on up the hillside. 5 mins – you will pass horse riding stables. Immediately after take the right when the road forks. Follow this rough track for 15 mins. Park at the Forestry Station barrier and car park (1hr from Lanjaron).

Mulhacen ascent

Perched precariously on Mulhacen summit point!

2hrs after starting you will arrive at the Mirador de Trevelez (a nice place for a breakfast stop will be found 30m to the right by some rocks overlooking the town of Trevelez). Continuing on the old road for 400m, a faint track leaves the road heading rightwards. This is the main south ridge access track. Follow to the south summit and hence to the main summit of Mulhacen (2.5 to 3hrs from Mirador de Trevelez).

Mulhacen descent

From the summit drop 50m south to a point where 2 adjacent cairns mark the start of the west flank path. Follow the track west. This steepens until the full extent of the west flank is seen below. Great views to the Caldera and Veleta areas. This is an unrelenting descent of 500m in a series of steep zig-zags. But it is quick! You should be down at the old road in 40 minutes.

Turn left (south) on the old road which passes over the “Paso de los Franceses” and eventually nears the Alto de Chorillo and the ascent route. Some 400m before the Alto de Chorrillo bear right down over pathless terrain to meet the road that goes from the Poqueira hut to the Alto de Chorrillo. Then, at the first left hand bend in the track take the traverse path south. Follow this along the mountainside. It passes through a forested area before arriving at the forest break above the Hoya del Portillo.

Follow the firebreak down. It is a bit rough, but no rougher than the Mulhacen slopes tackled previously. After 10 minutes you will see a small cairn on the left (looking down) that signifies a small path that enters the forest. Take this path. It is very faint in places but if you generally head a a descending traverse you are bound to reach the forest road or visitor car parks at the Hoya del Portillo.

And that’s it! A 24km walk up and down Mulhacen without ever having crossed the same tracks twice. It will take you between 7 and 9 hours with nearly 1200m of ascent. The Map and Google Earth Tour below will show you the route to be taken. There are links to altitude profiles and more mapping data.

Night ascents of Mulhacen, Spain

Sunrise from the summit of Mulhacen

Fantastic colours on the eastern bowl

The Eastern Sierras

The summiteers

Veleta (R) and it's shadow (L) across the Vega de Granada

Veleta

We leave Lanjarón at seven in the morning from the petrol station, arriving at the Hoya del Portillo above Capileira, where no vehicles can  continue at 8am. From this point begins a trek of more than four hours to the summit of Mulhacen, the highest point in mainland Spain.

Continuing along the trail we reached the Mirador de Trevélez, indicated by a sign. We can peek down to see these alpujarreño people at our feet. After the Mirador, we reached the Alta de Chorrillo, from where leaves a track to the left to the Refugio Poqueira. We follow the main track, a little further and take a track on the right, the remains of the old track up to Mulhacén

We take various shortcuts up the trail. To the left of it the marvellous vista of the Caldera, Mulhacén River Valley, Loma Pelada, Rio Seco, Cerro de los Machos, Veleta and Tajo de los Machos .

Once on top we see a vast panorama, including the coast of Africa, much of the Andalusian mountains. At our feet to the north and under the impressive face the Mulhacén , you see the pass of the Mosca and the entire upper basin of the Genil. To the east we see the valley of  Siete Lagunas, of which Laguna Hondera is the only one to be seen. The Alcazaba and the entire eastern Sierra Nevada chain to it’s end in Almeria. For the west and in the foreground we see the Laguna de Caldera, and after this the Cerro de los Machos and Veleta. Also, along the top, we can see the remains of the buildings that were used to perform geodetic link between Spain and Morocco in the last century.

The way return is back down the steep west face of Mulhacén looking for Hoya de La Caldera, to cross before getting there with the old road coming from the ski resort from the Carihuela, to turn left, direction back up to the Alto del Chorrillo.

Read more from Pepe Badaje at his blog (in spanish). Also videos and more photos from the trip.

Inside is space for about 5 in the main room and maybe 2 more in the entrance area. I have yet to confirm the exact grid reference but it lies at 473126E 4096752N 30S. Could be useful in an emergency or for those lost on the Alto de Corrillo in mist or bad weather. May also prove useful for winter purposes being only an hour and a half from Mulhacen summit. There is a shovel attached to the marker pole for clearing out snow etc.

It is not marked on any map I own. Who put up the marker post? Who supplied the shovel? For want of a better name at this time, I’ve called it the “Chorrillo Refugio”

The hut from the outside. Mulhacen behind

Inside the "Chorrillo" hut

The easily identifiable marker post

The following notes describe the route from south to north. They are intended to help trekkers avoid the most difficult snow covered areas necesitating ice axe and/or crampons. References are to the best map of the area which is the Editorial Penebetica 1:40000 (More about maps to follow later this week). The following points should be noted for all those contemplating and ascent in June 2011.

The northern aspects Alcazaba and Mulhacen in June

(1) Road access to the Ventura hut – difficult. Road in poor state on final 2 km to trailhead. We now start on the ridgeline S of Pena Caballera, go up the firebreak and meet the acequia above the Ventura hut. Longer but better after the initial ascent.

(2) Easiest way to Caballo hut is via summit and col to the north. This avoids snow and ice covered eastern slopes SE and E of the summit.

(3) Don’t take the amenable looking Verea Corta path. This crosses very steep, snow covered ground! Either take the ridgeline via Tajos Altos or from the hut drop down to the Rio Lanjaron and ascend the valley to the Elorietta.

(4) Ridge NE of Tozal del Cartujo. Avoid the first step dropping down to the right. Next step ascend directly and the final small problem take a line traversing down the exposed left hand side. Easy thereafter to the hut.

(5) Elorietta to Cariguela. If you know the route and are comfortable in crampons the ridge is best. Otherwise you will have to drop down to Lagunillas de la Virgen. Make an early start and wear crampons. This section is on a convex slope with considerable steepening below. Not recommended in the afternoons on soft snow.

(6) Cariguela to Caldera. The road is not clear of snow. Be prepared for at least 2hrs walking at an angle on snow! Watch the section below Paso de los Machos (S of Cerro de los Machos). Scene of accidents. Crampons.

(7) Ascent of west flank of Mulhacen. Straightforward. Bottom half snow covered apart from a small line right on the angle of the west and northern flanks. Top mainly clear.

(8) Alcazaba. Easiest way is via the SE up and down. The gully from the head of Siete Lagunas to the plateau is steep snow. Not recommended unless you have the experience.

(9) Puntal de Vacares. Ok. Just affected at a few sections. Actually in places easier than in summer due to walking on snow rather than floundering around in boulders.

Have fun! If you need any advice or an update on the above please contact me and I will try to help.

Not stars unfortunately, snow flakes!

We left Lanjaron at midnight in order to be on (or near) the summit for sunrise at approximately 6.50am. We intended to use the day-route rather than the more scenic two-day route. The day route starts at the recreational area of Hoya del Portillo, high above Capileira with the first half hour of walking taking you through a forest. It’s well known that most forested areas in the Sierra Nevada are home to many wild boar but I hadn’t really given much thought as to how many would be out and about in the middle of the night given that there would be no humans around. However, I was given a quick reality check as we drove round the final corner before parking the car when a huge wild boar the size of a hatch back ran in front of the car followed by three baby boar.

The nerves really hit me as we entered the forest and I immediately saw dozens of pairs of eyes reflecting off our head torches so I gave the client two sticks to keep beating together whilst I shouted “Piggy!!” at the top of my (trembling) voice whilst keeping a firm grip on new mountain guide Max (the dog). I knew that as long as they heard us coming, the boar would get out of our way but if we surprised them with the babies we would be in real trouble. Anyway we made it through the forest un-gored and very relieved and picked up the access road to the Poquiera Hut and followed this as far as the Mirador de Trevelez which took about two hours.

Dawn breaking. S ridge Mulhacen

We had a quick break at the mirador and as we looked south toward the Mediterranean I saw a huge lightning storm and my first instinct was to turn back immediately. But it was along way out at sea and we had plenty of time to make a later a judgement on whether to turn back as the sky above Mulhacen was completely clear with amazing star-scapes . In the end, no thunderstorm made its way towards the Sierra Nevada.

From the mirador we picked up the feint path that takes you up the south ridge of Mulhacen. Sticking to the path was quite tricky with just head torches and no natural light due to no visible moon. The occasional cairn reassured us we were on track but I always had the silhouette of the South summit in the distance to navigate off. We hit a few residual snow patches left over from winter but nothing that really required crampons and Max had a great time playing with and eating the snow, I’m not sure if he’s ever experienced it before.

View towards the east

It was very unfortunate for us that at exactly 6.45am, five minutes before sunrise we got engulfed in quite a fierce blizzard with high winds that only lasted for about 30 minutes but by the time it cleared, sunrise was over and it was already daylight. At the this point we were just below the South summit and the client decided that she had had enough of the wind which would only get worse once we hit the main ridge line toward the North summit so we turned back.

As can often be the case in the mountains, by the time we got back to the mirador there was clear blue skies on the summit but at least it meant we would have nice views across the Trevelez and Poquiera valleys to the east and west on our walk back along the ridge. The return journey was much less uneventful than the ascent with no threat of lightning or maternal wild boar. Max got a bit of excitement from a group of large Ibex (mountain goats) which he was desperate to run after, but I had securely got him on the lead. We returned to Lanjaron for a well earned beer for breakfast after a great experience and my first night ascent. Looking back, the close encounters with the wild boar were really more exciting than scary but I think in future we will take a slight detour to avoid the forested area at night.

Make a night ascent of Mulhacen

James and Max. James is the taller!

See the video on Youtube
David Spreadborough mulhacen trip report
Spready on Twitter