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Home» Patagonia & Andes » The Climax is the Coming Back from a Dangerous Place.

The Climax is the Coming Back from a Dangerous Place.

Posted by admin - December 3, 2010 - Patagonia & Andes, Trip reports
5

A summary of the Spanish Highs Patagonian Icecap Expedition 2010 which has just returned from Argentina.

We must have upset the weather gods. Unlike previous trips, this time Patagonia threw everything it had as us weather wise. Like other Argentine groups we sat for 3 or more days at La Playita campsite waiting for our chance to climb onto the icecap. During that time we were nearly blown away in gale force winds, got snowed in and once when flooded, had to build drainage diches in the middle of the night to allow excess water to escape.

Reaching the icecap as the sun drops low in the evening sky

Reaching the icecap as the sun drops low in the evening sky

A brief weather window arrived and some parties made it to the Garcia Soto hut beneath Gorra Blanca. Others turned back below the seracs on the Marconi Glacier when that weather window unexpectedly closed.

Caught well above the seracs when the weather turned, we fought against high winds and cutting spindrift in a bid to reach the icecap before nightfall. The shelter provided by the Garcia Soto refugio was too far away in worsening conditions. We headed for the open icecap. Half an hour after crossing the Paso Marconi we prepared our snow walls and erected tents just as the light vanished. During the night, tents had to be repeatedly cleared of snow to prevent burying or collapse.

Kiersten Rowland climbing above the seracs on the Marconi Glacier

Kiersten Rowland climbing above the seracs on the Marconi Glacier

Damp and drained and with no improvement in conditions, next day a decision was made to retreat. We had a severe navigational test finding the entrance to the serac barrier as we were blown over and battered by the strong winds. Eventually we made it back to La Playita and hence to El Chalten. Myself and Kiersten suffered some uncomfortable snowblindness as a consequence and all had a touch of frostnip in the fingers.

A week trip to do what normally takes us 2 or 3 days. Was it a disappointment? Certainly, we didnt achieve the objective of the icecap traverse this time. But we did have a hell of an experience! We survived in arctic conditions in one of the most inhospitable locations on the planet when the weather is poor. We bonded as a team and pushed our limits. I dont believe any one of us would, with the benefit of hindsight, change the experience we had.

Here is a short video we managed to salvage from the Icecap….

As mountaineer Ed Visteurs said…… “The climax is not on reaching the summit, it’s the coming back from a dangerous place”

Rest stop on the Marconi Glacier

Rest stop on the Marconi Glacier

I would like to say what a priveledge it has been to share a rope with Kiersten Rowland, Neil Sandoz and Michael Bodiam over the past weeks. Thank you all for your help, teamwork and shared experiences.

As is bound to happen, we spent the last few days trekking and photographing the majestic peaks of Fitzroy and Cerro Torre in glorious calm weather. Such is life in the mountains.

Our eyes constantly looked up past the towering mountain spires to the white expanse of the magnificent icecap beyond. We shall be back, that is certain. There is a feeling of unfinished business around. We have agreed to return and renew our acquaintance in November 2012.

There are 4 remaining places on this trip in November 2012. Total group size including guides will be 8. Contact me if, after reading this brief summary, you are not put off and still have an interest!

We shall be writing more and supplying full photo diaries in the next few weeks. We also have a video of the trip due out before Christmas.

Argentina, Chalten, expedition, Fitzroy, Icecap, mountaineer, patagonia, Patagonian

5 comments on “The Climax is the Coming Back from a Dangerous Place.”

  1. admin says:
    December 3, 2010 at 1:34 pm

    As a postscript, we have just learned from friends in El Chalten that 2 Argentine guides and a mexican client have pushed on in bad weather. Their tents were destroyed and provisions blown away. They have escaped with their lives but are in a bad way with hyperthermia. The rescue helicopter that got them is now grounded with bad weather, so a team of 23 rescuers is on it’s way to rescue the rescuers!

    Still glad we all made the right decision to return.

  2. Tweets that mention The Climax is the Coming Back from a Dangerous Place. » Sierra Nevada News, Reports & Mountain Conditions -- Topsy.com says:
    December 3, 2010 at 2:30 pm

    [...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by Kiersten Rowland, Richard Hartley and Khumbu, Ian Williams. Ian Williams said: The Climax is the Coming Back from a Dangerous Place. http://ow.ly/3jmAj make sure you read the comment at the end of the post! [...]

  3. Patagonia Icefield Trailer « Mountain Videos says:
    December 11, 2010 at 11:53 am

    [...] “The Climax is the Coming Back from a Dangerous Place” – a summary of the 2010 Expedition [...]

  4. Gear Review PHD Yukon Down Jacket » Sierra Nevada News, Reports & Mountain Conditions says:
    January 9, 2011 at 1:09 pm

    [...] Details of our trip to the Patagonian Icefields in November 2010 [...]

  5. We are renewing our tussle with the Patagonian Icecap. Want to come? » Sierra Nevada News, Reports & Mountain Conditions says:
    April 26, 2011 at 8:15 am

    [...] a look at our Expedition Page “The Climax is the Coming Back from a Dangerous Place” – a summary of the 2010 Expedition Surviving Patagonia – a trip report from Kiersten [...]

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