Last weekend I joined a group of local spanish walkers in, what for them was a pilgrimage to find the source of the spa waters of their Alpujarras town of Lanjaron. The source is high up in the Sierra Nevada mountains at the Laguna de Lanjaron at the head of the Rio Lanjaron valley.
We set off in 4wd transport from the town at a ridiculously early 6am. By 7am, as first light was emerging, we arrived at the high trailhead near the Ventura hut. From here we ascended to the Laguna de Caballo at 2900m. After the 2.5 hour ascent the laguna provided a pleasant stopping place for breakfast.
From here the infamous “Verada Cortada” traverses the mountainside high above the Lanjaron valley. It is an ingenious path winding it’s way between steep mountain walls. At one place the going becomes precipitous and a cable assists progress. Only a few short exposed steps but nothing for an experienced mountain walker.
After a short ascent we arrive at the Laguna Cuadrada, so called because it is almost square in shape. A lovely spot to laze around and enjoy the dramatic views. After 1.5 hours we arrive at the mystical Laguna de Lanjaron, nestling at the head of the valley below the old Elorrieta refugio.
My spanish friends love this spot. It is the place their grandfathers have told them about. A shangri-la. The source of the life giving waters. We eat lunch and relax on the lush green grass.
Then it’s a headlong dash directly down alongside the Rio Lanjaron and by keeping directly to the line of the river some scrambling fun can be had. I am amazed at how much snow and ice is still around. In places the river runs beneath the snows and forms precarious bridges. My amigos play dangerous games of “Russian Roulette” over the snow bridges. Amazing that it is mid-August in southern Spain and valley temperatures are in the 30′s.
The snows finally run out at about 2200m and we head SW out of the valley following the line of an old and broken irrigation channel (acequia). The going is now easy but it still takes an hour before we arrive back at our transport below the Ventura hut. We head down to the welcoming bars of Lanjaron for more than a few celebration cervezas!
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