For many years as I have driven on the coast road from Malaga to Salobre±a, my eyes have been drawn inland from Almu±ecar to a high mountain summit topped by what looked like fantastic rock cliffs. Maybe a new climbing area? But was it approachable?
At a bit of a loose end yesterday, we headed inland from Almu±ecar, past the villages of Jete and Otivar. Just before the village of Lentigi we turned right on a dirt track and slowly zig zagged our way uphill, heading in approximately the right direction. Oh, I wish we had brought the 4 x 4!
40 minutes from Otivar and rounding a corner in the road the crag loomed overhead. The track at this point goes all the way over to Guajar Alta and Los Guajares area, and the crag is maybe better approached from that direction, with hindsight. We arrived at a high pass overlooking both the Otivar and Guajares valleys. A fine vantage point with the snow clad mountains of the Sierra Nevada as a startling backdrop. Here we parked the car and headed up steep loose scree to the crag.
As is often the case in Spain, the end result of these exploratory trips is disappointing with loose scree, spiky vegetation and loose rock. In this case however the crag was good solid rock. Yes, the approach and traverse round the cliffs is horrible (if you wish to follow in our footsteps), but there are some good rock climbing lines to be found.
In particular there is a line nose on to the pass that looks as if it might give 4+ routes. Otherwise there are plenty of 5’s to try out. None of it is bolted and traditional protection means must be used. Mostly 1 pitch but some lines might give 2.
We had no rope so satisfied ourselves by scary exploration among the loose rocks at the crags foot. Worth a look if you are into this sort of adventurous stuff. A sign on a post suggested the peak was called “Feroces”, so that is what I am going to call this from now on until corrected.
