Chris and Mike Ritson with friends, Brian and Gary, have just completed a four day trip in the Spain’s Sierra Nevada, climbing on the Raspones and Tajos de la Virgen and Puntal de la Caldera.
Within 2 hours of arrival at Malaga they were at 2500m, kitting up at the Hoya de la Mora above the Sierra Nevada ski station. The sudden transition from the lowlands of Lancashire to the snowy heights of the sierras was felt as they toiled up towards the 3400m summit of Veleta. According to Chris, “the remants of our flu bug left a green trail that could be seen from space!”
They stayed at the Cariguela hut on the first night. Skies were clear and great sunsets were enjoyed from the col by the hut.
The following day, Mike was feeling unwell and stayed at the hut. The remaining members spent the day climbing various short routes on or about the Tajos de la Virgen ridge.
Next day they made an early start to avoid the avalanche prone slopes below Cerro de los Machos. The snows lay deep and heavy. They left there gear at the col north of los Raspones and dropped down left to the foot of the first climbing area.
There is so much scope here for winter routes. They are only of 2 pitches, but the variety is staggering. The guys concentrated on the area to the right as you look at the face. A number of gullies were climbed between grade 2 and 3, although some harder stuff was attempted nearing grade 4.
Descent is normally by abseil down the ascent line or by traversing northwards along the ridge and down climbing followed by a short abseil off.
As can be seen from the photo below, there is still loads to do and the area deserves more recognition. The routes are objectively safe as long as avalanche conditions don’t prevail (unlike the north face of Mulhacen. See accident report which occurred the following day).
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Photos © Chris Ritson (March 2009)
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The night was spent at the Viento hut. This hut is not used much as there is some damage to the roof, but the view is spectacular as the hut is situated on an open location on the southern ridge of Loma Pelada.
The last day the weather came in and the snow failed to freeze overnight. Hard going in the soft snow. The team decided to bail out and headed south to the welcoming bars of Capileira.
See the Photo Album below for more shots of the climbing.
[flickrset id="72157615379410735" thumbnail="square" overlay="true" size="medium"]
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[...] Also see Chris Ritsons report of gully climbing on the east side of the Raspones at http://www.sierra-nevada-news.com/2009/03/trip-report-climbing-raspones-sierra-nevada/ [...]