Winter climbing potential on the Cerro de Caballo

Just had a 2 day exploratory trip to investigate the winter climbing potential that exists on the Cerro de Caballo peak above Lanjaron in Spain’s Sierra Nevada. The crags and gullies are found at an altitude of 2800+ on the NE and E faces of the summit cone.

We parked the car at the Ventura Trailhead. At times a 4WD is necessary to reach this spot, depending on recent rainfall severity). We walked to the old ruined Ventura Hut in 15 minutes. Then it was up to the old acequia and the follow the right hand edge of the upper forest. We had been following a track of sorts but on leaving the forest the tracks disappeared and we found ourselves in deep unconsolidated snow.

Rather than traverse across the eastern flank of the ridge (the route of the normal summer track), we headed straight up to the main ridgeline. On the ridge itself the snow was harder and the views more extensive. We headed north up the easy ridge before reaching the old ruins on a plateau to the east.

We traversed round the eastern flank of the mountain. It was hard going in soft snow. Night was drawing in by the time we reached the Caballo hut. In summer it takes 3 just hours to reach this point, but today we had taken 5.5.

The hut is a rather squalid affair filled with snow, damp and lacking a good door! The temperatures dropped sharply as the sun set and we quickly feasted on a communal cheese fondue before getting in our bags for the night. Outside the air was still and cold.

The bright morning sun filtered through the cracks in the door as we rose, geared up and headed out. What could be better than this? Not a cloud in the sky, hard snow and no other people around. Perfect conditions for our exploratory day.

We started on some crags and gullies at the back of the Laguna de Caballo. All easy stuff, grade 1, 2 at the most. Great practice for the Alps or for those starting off in mountaineering. Plenty of suitable belays in the shattered rocks of the gully walls. The routes are short (1 or 2 pitch lengths) but the height and atmosphere of the place is that of a much grander peak.

We have no knowledge of first ascents around here, needless to say, that we now have some names for the climbs here. In particular Clive Fenn, John Fry, Dennis Morrod and Richard Hartley enjoyed “Mad Dog” a 2 pitch grade 1 gully climb (so named after an extremely hot salsa dip we had suffered 2 days previously in the local bars!). Descent is via the Col de Caballo.

Later we returned south to the large snow bowl just north of the ruined plateau. At the back of the corrie are loads of interesting lines waiting to be done, all in the same vein. Some large cornices exist in places. In addition, there are some potentially good lines of mixed ground leading directly to the summit area.

By now the snow was worsening in the sun, so we rejoined our outbound route and made a rapid 2 hr descent back to the car. If you are visiting the area this is worth a look. It is not “hard mans” terrain, but as easy introduction to the delights of winter mountaineering it is ideal. As far as I am aware few people ever climb here. If you are interested or need any help or further information, please use the contact form.